Hi Dave,
> - Make sure the car is set securly up on jack stands, this should be the
case
> whenever working under the car.
I go one slightly different, a 2x4 block on top of a cinder block. I use 4
of these under the frame so that no matter how much I bump and jar the car
while doing gearbox work I am assured to be safe. Besides the 2x4 don't
scratch the frame :-)
> - Get someone to give you a hand.
For sure, did it once by myself, never again......
> - Really important to support the engine properly before removing the
gearbox.
A hydraulic jack and 2x2 block of wood works wonders.
> - Use a adjustable jack with a block of wood to support the engine this
will help with re-installing the gearbox.
oops, missed this sorry.
> - Do not put yourself directly under the drive shaft while removing it.
It
> can fall onto that part of your body (head, face) directly under it
when it
> comes off. That didn't happen me to but I can see it happening.
I always reach from the edge, no probs so far.
As for testing it up in the air, I did to make sure all the electrics (od,
reverse etc), all worked and the test of the clutch while everything was
still apart. For some reason something always gets missed, especially if it
has been out for more than a week :-P
With this I can have the car up on blocks and interior out ready for
unbolting of the gearbox in 45 minutes. Then I wait for someone to help in
the next step :-)
David Templeton
'74 spitsix ( gearbox out 4 times in 2 years ).
'59 TR3a ( gearbox put back into the bare frame for the first time in a long
time )
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