Hi,
I can certainly provide a short list of things not to do.
First, DON'T FORCE IT! The misery of loosening these bolts is nothing
compared to what's involved in removing busted studs. I tried WD-40 and heat
on the front stud and broke it anyway. Though I haven't tried it, I've heard
PB Blaster is a more effective penetrant and heat is probably a necessity as
well based on how firmly mine was stuck.
I can't say that I found the water pump was in the way(different socket set
maybe?), though I guess I used an extension which probably added to my lack
of "feel" as I turned/busted it. The machine shop I ended up at also said
that "low heat is worse than no heat" and that you need MAPP gas at least to
properly heat and loosen such a bolt. The back bolt is likely to be stuck as
well (though the PO broke that one for me) and if it's busted, just pull the
head or engine as the drill out procedure is pretty difficult unless you are
more mechanically gifted than I.
The extended "inner nuts" that are shrouded between the intake and exhaust
mainfolds will eventually succumb to an open end wrench at a shallow angle
from above the exhaust manifold or they can be approached from underneath.
Take lots of pictures of the whole emission setup because it is a mare's nest
and hard to reassemble.
The exhaust manifold is probably cracked. Mine was and I hear it's common.
Headers are cheaper than new cast-iron manifolds, but, if you're in a state
that pays attention you will need a different catalytic converter setup at
least.
Have fun!
Tom Burke
80 Spit
In a message dated 01/07/2001 10:36:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rrdeaver@emagichappens.com writes:
> Hiya all,
>
> Anyonne have some sage advise for the R&R of the intake and exhaust
> manifolds on a 1980 Spitfire 1500? Specifically, I noted when inspecting
> the manifolds to see what it will take to pull them (I have a manifold
> gasket leak and possible cracked exhaust manifold), each end of the
> manifold has a single stud at the end.
>
> The wonderful thing is that these two studs have no clearance for a socket
> to remove the nuts, and the one on the front of the engine appears to not
> allow room for even a crowfoot wrench without removing the water pump.
>
> What tools would work for freeing these nuts without pulling the water
> pump? Anyone know of a working solution?
|