Just a dumb question without benefit of knowing your original plan:
Instead of moving the engine/trans back, why not just cut a section of frame and
driveshaft out to shorten the whole rig? That would be another way to shift
your weight rearward, and a shorter wheelbase turns faster . . .
Mike
Renton, WA
Dave Terrick wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> The 1:1 scale model of a spit6 racer is progressing nicely.
>
> Today I got about the business of squaring the driveline to the chassis and
> fabricating new engine mounts. When you set the engine back 7.5 inches or
> so, a couple of things happen. First, you gotta chop a whole lot o chassis
> to fit the TR series gearbox. Second, the throttle pedal now rests on the
> oil filter! Finally, the gearbox sits ON the frame and the shifter is
> somewhere near the back seat....
>
> I am vacillating between racer only and street monster. I figure if a Super
> 7 can be licensed, so can my creation. I will be more than compensating for
> the frame mods by adding the outboard chassis rail (in preparation for a
> roll cage, and for a surface to which I'll weld the flat steel floor). Some
> aluminium bashing I did with some scraps makes me think I can construct a
> reasonable tunnel that will pass safety. The stock centre arch still fits,
> so I suspect I can just modify a cardboard housing if need be.
>
> The frame mods are an extension of the notch already provided for the stock
> setup. I "carefully" cut the frame apart, expecting to need most of the
> metal. Now I realise it would have been as easy to whack it out and just
> re-form the frame as a triangle with a flat plate!. There is a 1.5" gap
> between the oil pan and engine plate which is an ideally suited passage for
> a 1 x 1 brace to restore structural integrity to the modified frame.
>
> But that's tomorrow.
>
> Dave Terrick
--
Mike - Renton, WA
CARCENTRIC - http://home1.gte.net/NugentMD/Spitfire3500.htm
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