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[Fwd: screwed...]

To: Spitfire List <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fwd: screwed...]
From: John Cave <cavej@mcmaster.ca>
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 13:29:58 -0500
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Message-ID: <38C3CB69.B565A099@mcmaster.ca>
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:14:50 -0500
From: John Cave <cavej@mcmaster.ca>
Reply-To: Spitfire List <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Organization: McMaster University
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To: Jeff McNeal <jmcneal@ohms.com>
Subject: Re: screwed...
References: <013701bf8727$732bfc40$bc0b5e18@san.rr.com>

Jeff . Stay away from the acid, nasty stuff and it wont work, if there is a
piece of the tap proud of the seat rail surface you can weld a nut on to the tap
and then back it out. A machine shop or a machinist should have tap extractors
which should get it out  as the tap is not too small or in a deep blind hole, if
that didn,t work they could burn it out with an E,D,M. or you can grind the
whole mess of with a body grinder and use the hole the PO left you.
                                            Good Luck,  John.

Jeff McNeal wrote:

> Pardon the abrasive header of this message, but it seems like the most
> concise way to describe my situation.  When replacing my seat rails
> yesterday, I noticed that the PO had drilled an alternate hole in the seat
> track because he busted one of the 1/4" mounting bolts in the original hole.
> Up for the challenge, I sawed off the nub sticking up so I would have a
> nice, flat surface to drill through, which I did with a 7/32" bit, drilling
> through the old bolt. So far, so good.
>
> Next, I borrowed a buddies tap and die set and proceeded to tap a new 1/4" x
> 28 thread.  Then, SNAP!  The tap busted off inside the hole, with no way to
> get it out.  I killed two perfectly good drill bits trying.  Someone
> suggested a cobalt drill bit to slice through the hardened steel of the tap.
> Now, the thing is a real mess and I'm trying to figure out the best way to
> drill back through and retry with a new tap.
>
> I wish there were some kind of jig I could create that gave me the stability
> and precision of a drill press.  Right now, there's no way I can get the bit
> started straight on because of the way the tap broke off.  My plan at the
> moment is to attack the problem from the bottom side this time, using a die
> grinder to flatten off the bottom, before drilling up and through.  Before I
> attempt this, is the broken tap going to be too much for my grinding wheel?
> IS there a simple, clever way to rig up a portable drill press so I can
> drill straight down without worring about drilling crooked?  Or should I
> just say "screw it" and use the alternate hole that the PO drilled, even
> though it interferes with the travel of the sliders?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jeff in San Diego
> 67 RHD Spitfire Mk3 aka Mrs. Jones
> www.ohms.com/spitfire/spitfire.shtml


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