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After reading all the suggestions you guys offered and discussing the =
situation with my old plumber/pipefitter friend, this is what I came up =
with
Using two or three different sizes of sockets and finally a 1/2=E2=80=9D =
socket extension with a =E2=80=98flare=E2=80=99 from the shaft to the =
head I slowly swaged the tube until
I could insert a normal 3/4=E2=80=9D section of tube inside it. I =
sweat soldered those two pieces together. =20
While we were digging the ditch for the sink drain we snagged the =
original line about 3 feet from where I =E2=80=98remembered=E2=80=99 it =
being. I removed/replaced the damaged piece with standard
3/4 stick tubing and we found that the plumber had used stick tube from =
the house to the garage and then used the coil tubing to make the radius =
bend up thru the floor slab. I=E2=80=99ll never know why... maybe an =
apprentice's
decision to finish up early one day
.
I did check the o.d. of the other end of the coiled tube and found it to =
be the same as the stick tubing (just like some of you said). Soooooo =
the consensus that the tube had frozen and expanded enough to prevent =
fittings from going on the end was probably the right answer. =20
after all the drain/ditch work and the repairs I installed a =
3/4=E2=80=9D ball valve and opened the valve on the other end... so far =
(4 hours)... no leaks, no fountains in the garage, no large wet spots in =
the yard
and I=E2=80=99m tired. I should have done this 25 years ago when I =
built the house and was in my 40=E2=80=99s.
thanks for all the advise, opinion, and discussion... once again this =
fine group has saved my bacon..
later
\john
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>After reading all the suggestions you guys offered and discussing =
the=20
situation with my old plumber/pipefitter friend, this is what I came up=20
with</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Using two or three different sizes of sockets and finally a =
1/2=E2=80=9D socket=20
extension with a =E2=80=98flare=E2=80=99 from the shaft to the head I =
slowly swaged the tube=20
until</DIV>
<DIV>I could insert a normal 3/4=E2=80=9D section of tube inside =
it. I sweat=20
soldered those two pieces together. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>While we were digging the ditch for the sink drain we snagged the =
original=20
line about 3 feet from where I =E2=80=98remembered=E2=80=99 it =
being. I removed/replaced=20
the damaged piece with standard</DIV>
<DIV>3/4 stick tubing and we found that the plumber had used stick tube =
from the=20
house to the garage and then used the coil tubing to make the radius =
bend up=20
thru the floor slab. I=E2=80=99ll never know why... maybe an =
apprentice's</DIV>
<DIV>decision to finish up early one day</DIV>
<DIV>.</DIV>
<DIV>I did check the o.d. of the other end of the coiled tube and found =
it to be=20
the same as the stick tubing (just like some of you said). =
Soooooo=20
the consensus that the tube had frozen and expanded enough to prevent =
fittings=20
from going on the end was probably the right answer. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>after all the drain/ditch work and the repairs I installed a =
3/4=E2=80=9D ball=20
valve and opened the valve on the other end... so far (4 hours)... no =
leaks, no=20
fountains in the garage, no large wet spots in the yard</DIV>
<DIV>and I=E2=80=99m tired. I should have done this 25 years ago =
when I built the=20
house and was in my 40=E2=80=99s.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>thanks for all the advise, opinion, and discussion... once again =
this fine=20
group has saved my bacon..</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>later</DIV>
<DIV>\john</DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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