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Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting spot welds

To: Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Cutting spot welds
From: Benjamin Zwissler <bjzwissler@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 10:45:56 -0400
Cc: Spitfire Group <spitfires@autox.team.net>, Shop-Talk <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: shop-talk-archive@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <CAOtbU9WpzwtdBRGPQhe4EwhhALTF5zW+kFj1ardu57hTbcRS4w@mail.gmail.com>
I've used  a die grinder (slower) or a grinding disk in an angle grinder
(faster if you can position it).  Either way requires some caution to make
sure youd don't cut too deep into the "good" metal.

Ben.....

On Thu, Aug 2, 2012 at 10:38 AM, Doug Braun <doug@dougbraun.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I'm replacing the lower rear valence panel on my Spit, because it was
> bashed up
> years ago, and crudely repaired with bondo.  I've been using a cheap HF
> spot-weld
> drill bit to separate the spot welds, and that is going faster than I
> expected, especially
> since the Spitfire sheet metal is so thin.
>
> But does anybody know the best way to grind down those little discs of
> metal that
> the drill leaves behind?  (My drill bit is like a little hole-cutter.)  I
> need to grind them flush, without
> cutting too deeply into the second, remaining panel.
>
> BTW, I'll probably spring for a HF electric spot-welder to attach the new
> panel.
>
> Thanks again,
> Doug
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