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[Shop-talk] Couple of good gluing tips

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Subject: [Shop-talk] Couple of good gluing tips
From: "Karl Vacek" <>
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:02:45 -0500
These just came through the MG-TABC list and looked really helpful, so I 
thought I'd pass them on.  I never considered the wet sanding technique to 
avoid flash oxidation on aluminum, etc., but it sure makes sense.

I certainly agree that moat hardware store epoxies aren't worth the goo in 
the tubes!. For many years we had garage customers come by our sailing 
hardware store looking for JB Weld or a sub. to close pinholes in gas tanks. 
By & by we switched them over to W.E.S.T. epoxy as a better product. 
Basically you clean leak pinhole with whatever, then force epoxy thru hole 
(enlarging if necessary). This creates a "mushroom" head in tank that seems 
to produce a reliable fix. The same technique can be used to patch pinholes 
in air toys, rafts, etc. Only instead of using epoxy use 3M 5200 adhesive 
sealant.  Force it thru to make a mushroom head on inside of vinyl & you are 
back in business.

When bonding a hard to bond metal , e.g. alum. to whatever, there is an easy 
technique. Just "wet" sand the alum with catalyzed epoxy & emery paper. 
Sanding alum. Bnz. Copper, & other hard to bond metals to bright metal 
doesn't really get the metal "bondable" clean . They may look clean, but 
after cleaning they will still oxidize enough to result in an unreliable 
bond. Wet sanding with epoxy insures that surface is covered with epoxy 
film, isn't exposed to air & thus won't oxidize.

Odessa, Florida
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