Steve,
I'm not much of a welder--and don't play one on TV--but I have some experience
with MIG (getting ready to buy first TIG). Plus, it sounds like my
Austin-Healey 3000 has a similar axle housing.
This sure sounds like a job for a TIG. MIG would work, but you'd probably pile
up a large(r) bead, and maybe not get as much penetration. OA gas would work
too, but probably cause more collateral damage.
If your axle is like my Healey's, it doesn't appear as if the back plate bears
much load/stress--makes me wonder why it cracked?--so welding from the outside
alone should work (I'd drain the diff first). I don't think stop-drilling is
necessary if you make sure to carry the bead past the ends of the crack.
I don't know how thick the metal is here, but you might consider beveling out
the crack so you get better penetration (that's the key to this type of repair)
and, of course, clean the surface thoroughly.
Bob
Steve Shipley wrote:
> I'm trying to dig my Lotus 7 out of the garage (oops shop!) and get it
> running.
>
> There was a moment of sadness when looking at the rear axle housing.
> It's originally out of a Triumph Standard 10 I believe.
>
> Anyway it looks like any other rear axle but the back part of the axle
> where the gears reside is covered by a formed steel cover that
> is welded to the axle casting. This cover has about a two inch crack,
> on the upper part so the lube is still contained.
>
> I have a choice of welders; gas, mig, and tig. Unfortunately I am stuck
> with one weldor, me.
>
> So I'm thinkin'....about welding up the crack...and just how to do it.
> From the outside, from the inside, from bothsides....
> should I drill at the ends of the crack or will the welding alone
> stop the progression? I'm pretty sure there are a variety of ways
> to fix this, I'm interested in your thoughts on how you would approach
> this.
>
> Steve Shipley
> Seattle, WA
--
*******************************************************************
Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell@comcast.net
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