Hey - you're on your way. I don't know what M or W stands for - if it's
anything the plumbing supply will know, but I bet it's service weight. The
weights haven't changed in a looong time, and actually, 80 years isn't that
old.
If the rubber insert fits just a little loose, lots of silicone works fine
as an adjunct. In a recent floor-drain job, I had to mate service weight
into an XH hub and every "official" adapter rubber I could find was too
loose. I used silicone on the seal and also put a well-siliconed mission
coupling on top of everything just to make sure. Kind of
belt-and-suspenders, but I was putting oak floors over a concrete slab and
didn't want any chance of extra moisture from a weep.
Karl
>I opened up my copy of Renovations by Litchfield and he had a bit on
> extending the pipe via the cleanout. So I went down and had a better
> look at the wye and the cleanout is threaded into a leaded adapter,
> not into the wye itself like I originally thought. I was able to get
> enough lead out, and there's enough altitude drop, that it seems
> suitable to use this method and not disturb the wye.
>
> Was XH called XH before SV was introduced? All the markings I can see
> are CEPCO, and a W or M on one hub. I'll get a gasket type thing for
> both from the "real" plumbing supply in the morning. If I can't get
> it to seal with that, I have a box of lead wool that my dad had since
> before I was born. Finally, I know what it's for :-)
>
> thanks,
> jim
>
> On Mar 10, 2008, at 10:37 PM, Karl Vacek wrote:
>
>> Well, HD isn't much of a plumbing supply - you'll have to go to a real
>> plumbing
>> supply for this one.
>>
>> 80 years old, there's a chance it's XH (extra heavy) instead of S
>> (service weight). That may be a problem to mate to Service, which is
>> probably all you'll find available most places today, but your
>> supplier can
>> advice you how to mate that. If you have service weight in there
>> now, it
>> should be easy.
>>
>> As far as removing the old lead, just drill holes in it pretty much
>> the
>> entire distance from the bell to the pipe. A few bug holes and you
>> can
>> begin to pry out chunks of lead. Once you get started you can
>> wiggle the
>> pipes a little and pry the rest loose. Don't worry - the lead is
>> NOT tinned
>> onto the iron - it's just poured into the joint, and as it cools it
>> pulls
>> away a bit. The final step in leading a joint is to peen the lead
>> in - to
>> expand it out to contact the iron to fully seal.
>>
>> Once you get the lead out, pick the oakum out (it'll probably be
>> pretty
>> nasty towards the bottom). Clean everything, slip in the rubber,
>> and pop
>> the fittings together.
>>
>> Or, if you don't want to pour the lead yourself, you could either
>> use oakum
>> and lead wool (just pound it in like oakum, and it suffices OK), or
>> maybe
>> make up the connections, put in the oakum, and have a plumber with
>> a pot and
>> ropes come in to lead it for you. Shouldn't be too expensive for
>> just that.
>> I've tried the "no lead" gook that's supposed to set up and seal
>> the joint,
>> and I've had NO luck at all. Reminds me of Plastic Wood, which has
>> never
>> worked for me either...
>>
>> Your plumbing supplier should be able to offer lots of advice and
>> alternatives.
>>
>> Good luck !
>> Karl
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