Randall wrote:
>
> Ok, here's my take on the subject, although I've never dealt with Pete
> Groh (and I still don't see any reason to not do so).
It's inappropriate to the topic (why further confuse an already confused
issue <smile>), but when I'd last asked on the Triumphs list for copies
of service bulletins, Pete popped up and said, "can you use an old book
of prices and model cross-references?" Didn't send me copies--sent me
the original book--and I still haven't gotten it back to him. He hasn't
complained a bit. I suspect that Pete Groh may be more a gentleman than
he is being portrayed.
As for having a nice, new key, cut from the original code, here's my
story on that: in the early `80s, I worked for a Toyota dealer in
Florida, and a fellow had bought a new Corolla in a color scheme his son
(who was in the Air Force) wanted, but could not find where he was
stationed. The plan was to drive the car to his son, and transfer the
title and the note there. So, decided he wanted a spare key. A new one
was cut for him from the car's key code. He put the factory original in
his pocket, along with the spare. Then, happy as a clam, pulled a key
out, put it in the ignition and drove off. With, unbeknownst to him, the
ignition switch locked into the "start" position.
By the time he had arrived home in Ft. Walton Beach (about 40 miles), a
great deal of the wiring was fried, due to the starter running as an
unregulated generator....
An inspection of the keys, when the car was towed in, showed that it was
correctly cut from the code, and looked identical to the key which came
with the car. The edges were just a little sharper than the key provided
with the car. Enough to cause the ignition switch to hang up, even
though normal practice (which was followed) is to file off any burrs and
lightly touch up the sharp edges with a soft wire brush.
Newer-style steel keys, as delivered from the factory supplier, are
probably tumbled to remove the sharp edges.
A newer steel key (as opposed to the older plated brass keys), cut from
a locksmith's profile cutter, is far more likely to work, providing the
key to be copied works well in the lock.
Cheers.
--
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM (yes, _that_ Roswell)
[mailto:mporter@zianet.com]
`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
`80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
`86 Nissan 300ZX (the minimal-maintenance road car)
`68 VW Type II Camper (Lancia twin-cam powered, but feeling its age....)
Remember: Math and alcohol do not mix... do not drink and derive.
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