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Re: BOUNCE shop-talk: Non-member submission from [Matt Liggett <mliggett

To: Mark J Bradakis <mjb@spitfire.cs.utah.edu>, shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: BOUNCE shop-talk: Non-member submission from [Matt Liggett <mliggett@pobox.com>]
From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 19:23:47 -0400
At 03:41 AM 8/16/96 -0400, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>
>
>
> I just moved into a [rented] house with a 2-car garage.  I'll
> probably be in this house for 2 or 3 years, so I want to install a
> decent workbench in it.  I'd like anyone's reccomendations on 
> building compact work areas.  Materials selection, design 
> reccomendations, minimum dimensions would all be very helpful.

What I've been doing at my place is using 2"x4"s and 1/2" cdx plywood.
I'd recommmend that you cut the plywood in 1/2 length wise.  You'll
be able to make 2 8'x2' work benches.  I build a rectangular frame
with using 3 2x4s.  1 complete 2x4 on the front and rear edge, the
3rd gets cut about every 2' (longer for the 2 end, shorter for the middle
stringers).  To hold the end pieces to the front and rear
2x4, I use 4 angle "L" brackets (one at each corner) on the inside.
I put braces at about 2'6" from each end.  To hold thhese in place, I
use 2x4 hangers (about 40 cents at the hardware store).  Instead of
nailing everything together, I use dry wall screws.  For the legs,
again I use 2x4s cut for the desired table height.  (Note: I have
my compressor setting under the table and a box fan to help the
air flow.)  To attach the legs I usually use 3/8" bolts and nuts.
If the bench is going flush against a wall, I don't put rear legs 
on it.  I bolt the rear 2x4 to the wall studs with 3/8" lag bolts (note:
drill a decent pilot hole, I use my impact wrench to screw the lag bolts
in).  Lay the 1/2 a sheet of plywood on top and
screw it down with some 1" drywall screws.

I used a similar philosophy to put shelves in my attic and to drop
storage shelves from my ceiling.  I've managed to put up a 2 story
shelve at one end of my garage, about 64 cubic feet of storage for car
parts, another shelve over the small "back" door (about 32 cubic
feet of storage, and shelves over each garage door another 68 cubic
feet of storage.

Even with all this, I still have a shed in the back yard with 2 sets
of shelves (as described above), parts all over my atic, under or
behind every piece of furnature in the house, and you can't walk in
my garage.  I have my Bricklin body hung from the ceiling in one bay, 
the chassis waiting to go back together in the other bay.  A 77 Spit
hanging from the ceiling, a AMC 360 V8 for a 74 Brick in the 
middle of the Brick chassis, my 351W V8 for my Brick behind the 
chassis along with its transmission, a spare xmission for my Morgan,
an a spare 1500cc eng and xmission for the Spit.  Not to mention the
tools and other assorted items.

>
> It will probably go in a corner and will probably include both
> countertop-height and a desktop-height sections.  This is so I can
> either bang on parts standing up or sit down and dissect a carb or 
> whatever.

I suggest not making the table 2 levels.  Make it all one level at
a height that you can stand up and work at.  Then purchase a bar
stool (about $20) for a chair.  That's what I did.

Hope this helps.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ          email:  jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget  65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
     75 Bricklin SV1   77 Spitfire

The one with the most toys, wins!


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