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Hints, tips, etc

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Hints, tips, etc
From: trimmerr@icon-stl.net (Ronald G. Trimmer)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 22:06:02 -0500
I have been thinking for some time of passing on some ideas.  Some may not 
be original.  If anyone uses any of the ideas let me know.  I am sure this 
will probably be the first of at least two postings.

I will start by talking about my garage/shop.

To discourage theives from climbing in my windows and stealing my tools, I 
have big planter boxes full of prickley pear cactus under the outside 
windows.  These cactus are from a plant I found years ago growing along a 
country road in Missouri.  I live in the St. Louis, Mo area.  I have given 
starts to friends in Peoria, IL and it grows there.  If there is interest I 
could supply starts for the cost of postage.

My garage is 24 ft x 44 ft.  I chose the width at my Dad's suggestion so 
that I could take advantage of standard ready made trusses.  

The garage will park 4 cars, two in the front and two in the back.  The back 
half concrete floor was finished smooth and level.  I have an 18 ft x 8 ft 
door and a 32 inch entry door in the front.  The front half floor has a 
broom finish and slopes to a central drain.  I can easily drive a car into 
the back part of the garage and park it in the middle so that there is 
plenty of space around it to work--move the jack etc.  The front floor is 
good for traction when it rains or snows and the drain carries it off.

I have a footing and walls on the outside walls.  The walls extend about 13 
inches above the floor(width of the header that runs clear across the front 
of the garage).  In this way I was able to use standard precut studs, 4x8 
sheets.  It is a frame construction.  I braced the corners where I could 
with 3/4 inch plywood.

I ran into some problems in marking the wall for the  floor.  To avoid the 
problems I had I recommend that you get about 50 foot of clear plastic 
tubing and put a hose connection on one end.  Run water through the hose 
until the water is a constant temperature.  If you do not do this you will 
not get accurate results and they will change as the temperature equalizes.

I have an I beam running the 24 ft way about 12 ft from the back.  I placed 
1/4 inch plates on the footing and placed supporting pipes on these.  My 
brother-in-law and I built forms from the floor level down to the footing.  
Concrete was put into the forms to hold the pipes.  Later the floor was 
poured.  The pipes were held vertical with wires until the concrete got 
hard.  To fix the I beam to the pipes I got some donut like things with 6 
holes in each.  We drilled 4 holes in each end of the I beam using the donut 
as a guide.  The donuts were attached loosely to the I beam with bolts.  I 
hired a man with a big wrecker from a near by truck stop.  We put a chain 
around the middle of the Ibeam.  The wrecker lifted it in place.  We slipped 
one donut on the pipe, held it in place and then slipped the other donut on 
the other pipe.  Later I made sure the I beam was level, welded the donuts 
to the pipe, and tightened the bolts.  I want to build a trolley and put a 
block and tackle on it.  But before I do any lifting of objects like a whole 
care that could swing some, I believe I need to brace it some.  

I ran the gas, electric, and water from the house to the garage under 
ground.  I used continuous PVC gas(orange) pipe.  They also have continuous 
PVC for water.  I did not know that.  I have had leaks twice where the water 
goes through the foundation wall.  

I did place the windows at a height and made them of a size that they could 
be used for fire escapes if the need ever arose(even if I have to climb into 
the cactus).

The back half of the garage has fiber glass insulation between the studs and 
is covered by pegboard, some with 1/4 inch holes and some with the 1/8 inch 
holes.

I have a workbench on large lockable casters that I built.  I used cat liter 
boxes for drawers.  I have a large vise mounted on one corner of the top.  I 
drilled holes on the two ends for peg board holders to hold some tools.

To hold some pieces in place for welding I leveled up the part already done 
on blocks.  I attached new parts to a piece of plywood on one end and to the 
part completed on the other end.  I found that concrete blocks were ideal 
for holding the plywood in place(perpendicular to the floor).  My brother 
gave me some magnetic triangles that are great for holding objects in 45 or 
90 degree angles for welding. 

Ron Trimmer
93 Sable
88 Ranger
Autox junk yard dog in work
77 Tbird(retired, parts car for junk yard dog)


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