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Re: [Oletrucks] My Trucks

To: "'Carl & Becky Ham'" <the_hams@hotmail.com>, "'oletrucks oletrucks'"
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] My Trucks
From: "AJT-JCTrains-JCTrucks" <ajt@embarqmail.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 14:58:39 -0600
Carl,
We need you down here in Texas. Do you have any idea how many ppl come by my
shop and ask me to fix their wiring problems...

Those old braided ground straps are the best thing since pockets on shirts!
(what I use)


I used to have a sign hanging at the door: 
Wiring rates 65/hour... 
Rewiring your wiring 300/hr...
Answers about YOUR wiring... your title... 

Jay
Melting Snow in East Texas


-----Original Message-----
From: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl & Becky Ham
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 2:36 PM
To: Wayne Osborne; oletrucks oletrucks
Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] My Trucks

My '56 has fiberglass front fenders so grounding was a must.  But, I also
added extra ground wires at the cab and rear to assure all lights (cab dome
light and taillights) all worked well when I rewired my truck.  Some might
consider it overkill, but in my opinion there's nothing worse than
chasing-down an electrical problem after the truck is wired.



Just my 2 cents



Carl Ham

'56 Chevy Stepside

Sparland, IL

> From: wayne@chevytrucks.org
> To: Oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 13:55:58 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] My Trucks
>
> You're spot on Jay with the grounding ideas.. Some things as a fellow was
> told me are still low-tech, basics is still basics and gotta have good
> grounds... --wayne
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:oletrucks-bounces@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
> AJT-JCTrains-JCTrucks
> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 2:17 PM
> To: 'Mac Kinghorn'; Oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Oletrucks] My Trucks
>
>
> Mac,
> Most of the time when headlites are weak it's a grounding issue. Yes
voltage
> might read good but the ground isn't good enough ,, period!
>
> OK.... lets see: The battery is prolly grounded to the motor..great! But
> since the motor is or should be sitting on rubber mounts and the body
> is/should be mounted on rubber mounts,,, are the headlites really grounded
> properly? So,,, I would suggest temporarily run a separate ground from the
> negative side of the headlites directly to the negative post on the
battery.
> If this increases the candlelite of the hdlts then you know there is a
> problem, ground issue.
>
> If the above cures the problem as a test... you must ground the body to
the
> frame, then the frame to the motor. When working with these elder vehicles
> you will have rust and corrosion in places you cant see which will cause a
> break in the circuit. Another cause is when we install wiring harnesses,
we
> think that's it, we finished, hit the key and hold your breath! EVERYTHING
> works!
>
> The wiring harness people don't always include grounding straps for body
to
> frame and frame to motor. I like those OLD flat braided negative battery
> cables, they are flexible, easy to hide and come in different lengths.
>
> I'll shut up now and let some of the younger guys throw in their high tech
> ideas! j/k
>
> Jay
> East Texas
>
>
>
>
> Secondly I have an issue with my headlights and their dullness,
> especially in low beam. Everything seems to work okay, voltage is right,
> wiring harness was upgraded when rebuilt, headlights have been aligned
but,
> to
> me, way to dull. Any ideas on how to get them up to proper brightness.
> They
> are 7" round Halogens.
> Oletrucks@autox.team.net
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/oletrucks
>
> You are subscribed as wayne@chevytrucks.org
>
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