tom
i think the markings are 1&2 not I&S. #1 is for an idiot light, don't connect
it if you don't have one. #2 can be hooked to the large BATT post or if your
anal a keyed source. i usualy just hook it to the post on the alternator that
charges the battery.
this is from http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
The 10SI has three terminals (including those with a 1 wire regulator).
The large "BATT" terminal which gets connected to your battery positive. (Or
Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped).
And a dual terminal connector. (Repair pig-tails for this connector available
at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if pulling the alternator
from a vehicle).
The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning light.
For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series with a switched voltage
source. During normal operation the lamp stays off. If the regulator is
damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and the warning lamp will light.
Usually.
This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped 10SI alternators.
The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation. (3-wire 10SI)
It is connected to the battery positive.
For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector pigtail directly to the "batt"
terminal on the alternator.
The terminal is present on 1 wire regulators. Used only for those that require
the stock connector to fit snugly.
as for the amp gauge... my rant is to do away with it. no manufacturer has
used one since the 60s (with exception of mopar thru the early 70s). amp
guages were used with low output generators, most generators had a 30 amp
output. todays alternators are 60 amp minimum on up to 120 amp, the amp guage
is not designed for the load. you risk an underdash fire by hooking up. if
your 55 is a 2nd series, the conversion to a volt gauge is easy and it will
look stock.Kurt 58 3100 Apache project the "Duracell Project" it keeps
going... and going...When I die, i want to go asleep and peaceful, not
screaming and freaking out like everyone else in the car. > From:
tntcoop@earthlink.net> To: oletrucks@Autox.Team.Net> Subject: [oletrucks]
wired to start> Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 22:40:57 -0400> > I want to be able to
crank my truck so I can pull it in and out of my> shop. Hopefully the days of
pushing it in and out of the shop are> minimal now. I drew a diagram of how I
think it should be connected but> I need some help on the alternator wiring. >
Can someone tell me from the diagram, where the "S" connector and the> "I"
connector on the alternator connect to? Also the "BAT" terminal,> where does
it go to?> On the back of the instrument cluster, where do the wires come from
that> should connect to the "AMP" gauge?> >
http://www.coopscorner.com/55truck/55misc/startwiring.htm> > I also have a
picture of the back of the instrument cluster. The> speedometer connector has
what appears to be some really thick sticky> grease. The oil gauge fitting is
a little dirt down in it. Is there> anything I can spray in and around these
areas to clean them up?> I was told brake cleaner would clean it, but I have
to be careful and> not let it get on the face of the cluster. The cleaner
wouldn't hurt the> oil sending unit, but could damage any plastic parts.> Any
advice is always appreciated.> > Tom in SC>
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