First, I would make sure its not a guage problem. disconnect the sending unit
and check the gauge. Make sure its not bouncing, make sure its sitting at "0",
and not off the scale.
(this is assuming that its a standard 1 wire) Then ground the wire to the
engine.
This should make it read at maximum on the gauge. Again, make sure its not
bouncing, and that its not out of range. If its 2 wire, you short them
together. If
its more than 2 wire (GM did a safety circuit off of the sender for a
while....not
the greatest set up, IMO)....well, I'd have to get out a wiring schematic.
If you've varified the gauge, next I would put an oil pressure gauge on it.
I don't much trust gauges, I would definitely want to verify what its reading.
You can throw the sender at it, and it might or might not work....but it
concretes
things so that if it was something really weird causing it (such as bad diodes
in
the alternator, causing an AC current to mess with stuff).....just for example.
You can get oil pressure guages for checking that at most part stores for
under $30. Yes, you'd have to pull the distributor, but its really not hard at
all.
I use white out, mark where the rotor is to the distributor, then mark where the
distributor is in relation of the engine. You'll have to retime it when you
get done,
but if you watch your marks, you'll be within a degree or two.
Ryan
ryan.langford@comcast.net
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|