Tom,
Thats most likely where the water came from, if the pinion seal is bad
some may have worked its way in there, but condensation would be my best bet.
There is a seal on the pinion that should prevent that leak. Don't claim to
know it all on the rear ends but I think you can replace that seal without
taking it all apart if you're very very careful. Only funny part is the
crush sleeve, when you removed the pinion nut-that the nut on the
driveshaft end, apart you'll see a bearing that behind is is a crush
sleeve,this keeps both the pinion bearing at a predetermined load-called
preload. I'm not sure but maybe that seal is replaceable without taking so
much apart. You'd have replace the nut in the exact place--no tighter no
more loose but i've been told it can be done.
If the preload is not correct, you'll cause premature failure in either
bearings. There are also shims that keep the wear pattern on the
ring/pinion gear teeth at a predetermined pattern and these shims must be
correct also. I personally take the rear ends i've dealt with to a drive
live shop to ensure they are good. I don't have the correct tools to do a
job like that nor the full knowledge...
Never was able to remove all the play but got it pretty tight compared
to what it was. I planning on doing the research on the kit from GSPP
mentioned before and looking into that. But that still leaves all the tie
rod ends and what not to be redone. Amazing how one modification requires
you to do 2 more to make it workable. --wayne
At 02:04 PM 8/17/03 -0400, Tom C. wrote:
>Wayne,
>I took the cover off of my original 3:90 rear and noticed there was very
>little, actually close to no gear oil. However there was some water that
>came out, but not very much, but still there was water. This truck hasn't
>been driven since 1986 and it hasn't been under water, so I am curious how
>water got in a supposedly sealed rear end. I guess maybe condensation, but
>not sure about that. I did notice after putting gear oil in it, that it is
>leaking from around the pinion. I assume there is a seal there that has gone
>bad and I can grab the drive shaft and see the pinion move where the
>universal joint is.
>Were you able to get all the play out of your steering, or at least most of
>it? I may try getting the stock steering as good as I can and live with it.
>I got married in this truck and drove it for years with the steering like it
>is and the stock brakes so I figure I can deal with power brakes and stock
>steering.
> Have a great week,
> Tom in SC
> 55 2nd
>` 97 S-10
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
>[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of wayne osborne
>Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2003 1:19 PM
>To: Tom C.; Oletrucks
>Subject: Re: [oletrucks] power steering questions
>
>
>Tom,
> You can get a rebuilt steering box from the vendors, but kinda pricey
>and dont' expect miracles by just replacing that. The biggest part of play
>I found on my 56 was the drag link, I have Connie get it a wiggle the
>steering back and forth and i watch the steering box moving the pitman arm
>but the wheels weren't moving. Could quickly see the excessive play in the
>link. Many other components make up all the play found in most original
>stock steering, i.e. tie rods ends and king pins,. I noticed in the past
>issue of Classic Truck that Golden State now offers a different type of
>power steering mod. This one uses a Toyota box that is mounted in the
>original location with some slight modifications, i've heard alot of
>different views on the modification that puts the box on the outside of the
>frame in front of the front wheel. The Toyota looks like a better mod. With
>either you can use your stock column but will have to cut it off and place
>a bearing between the outside housing and the actual steering rod inside, i
>think the kit has such a bearing. This mod would take a short steering
>column but they can be purchased aftermarket.
> Carl Ham did a great write up on what they don't tell ya when using the
>kit that mounts the steering box on the outside of the frame. Great write
>up..
> --wayne
>
>
>At 08:33 AM 8/16/03 -0400, Tom C. wrote:
> >What are the components I need to put power steering on my 55 TF?
> >I need a rack, power steering pump, although i don;t know what year or
> >model, and hoses. What did i leave out?
> >Can I use my stock steering column?
> >Also, is it possible to get a new or rebuilt steering box and tighten my
> >steering up? Is there other things i can do to tighten the original
> >steering?
> >Thanks a lot for the help,
> > Tom in SC
> > 55 2nd
> >` 97 S-10
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>Wayne Osborne
>http://www.chevytrucks.org
>http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
Wayne Osborne
http://www.chevytrucks.org
http://www.chevytrucks.org/wayne
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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