I'm thinking those replacement ends are strainght and no taper and have a
nut on them to hold them in arms?
The threads may be left and right so you can adjust buy turning the center
tie rod w/out removing the ends to set
toe-in and such. The part that goes in the tie rod has the diff threads.
You do have to shop around for the prices from vendors. Most have the
same parts, diff prices. I still think most are
Import. As far as top/bottom, guess it would work either way if straight
shafted and you can clear everything when suspension goes full travel. My
bigger trucks have the tie rod on top. Seems less likely to fall out if nut
comes loose that
way too. My big trucks DO have taper ends and wouldn't work the other way.
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
glperry@fwi.com
Big AD trucks, COE
MM tractors and 1 Oliver!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Miller" <edngael@open.org>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2002 2:14 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Tie rod ends
> That was me posting most recently. I got my kit from Golden State back
> in about 1998. You can use your original tie rod (if the ends are tie
> rod ends then I'm calling the long rod in the center a tie rod), tho I
> also got a sturdier one in case I run over stumps or something. Who,
> me? They supplied later type tie rod ends to replace the original
> ball/socket style for about 45 bucks. You have to grind off the bottom
> end of the steering arms and have the ball studs pushed out, then the
> new tie rod ends go in that new hole. Since my driver's side one wore
> out after 10,000 miles, I just ordered a replacement. I still have some
> questions too:
>
> I took the tie rod end into NAPA and they couldn't find one like it.
> What do they come from?
>
> I don't know the application (like, '75 Chevy/John
> Deere/Mercedes/whatever) that the tie rod end is for, so I ordered
> another one from Golden State. The guy asked me which side. "The one
> with the right hand threads." Which side of the truck? I put it on the
> driver's side, but you could put it either way. I wanted the grease
> zirqs pointing backwards because they would be a little easier to
> reach. So I told him driver's side, I guess I have a 50/50 chance of
> getting the part I want. If I don't get the correct one, I found out
> later that LMC sells replacement style tie rod ends for 20 bucks. I'll
> get the other one from them. But does it make any difference which side
> goes where?
>
> Another question: should the tie rod ends go into the steering arm
> holes from the top or bottom? I thought the ball studs came out the
> top, but I could be remembering wrong. I put mine new ones in from the
> top for an extra couple inches of ground clearance, but if that's wrong
> and they have a taper, that would explain the quick wear. Hard driving
> on wash board gravel roads with heavy loads of dirt, rocks, and firewood
> probably didn't help.
>
> Here are a couple links to sites with instructions for the procedure:
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/
>
> http://www.classictruckshop.com/t2.asp
>
> The second link is a little slow for me, the article is in the project
> articles section. And I, too, had to have a machinist press out the old
> ball studs, I think it took about 25 tons. Beating on them did me no
> good. :-) Good luck, and let me know if you find anything else out.
> The list venders also sell rebuild kits for the original style tie rod
> ends, if you decide not to switch.
> Ed Miller
> '58 Apache Short Fleetside
>
> Neal wrote:
> Have a 57 chevy and saw someone earlier had posted something about
> converting
> to late model tie rod ends. Can I use my original center link and does
> anyone
> have part numbers for ends. Any info is greatly appreciated. thanx
> neal
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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