Thanks for the tips. I had planned on taking some pictures with my digital
before I start. In order for me to get the detent roller off it looks like I
have to remove the filter. I can't remember is there a gasket under the
filter?
Is there a rule of thumb for tightening the nut on the rod when I
reassemble?
Would it hurt to put a thin coat of silicone in the groove where the seal
seats? I am not sure but I may have nicked the casing also.
Someone on the list mentioned a tool that will get the seals out and I
called the FLAPS and no one had one. However I know there is such a critter
because the guy at the tranny shop showed me one as he was removing the
shifter rod for me. I wish I had done a little more research on the tool,
could have saved me some work. Oh well it's a learning experience.
Thanks for the tips and have a great 4th, I'll let ya know how it turns out.
Friendly regards from the Carolinas,
Tom 55 2nd 3100
1997 -2000 Racing Seasons
http://home.earthlink.net/~tomntam/index.html
Don't crush em, restore em!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of J Forbes
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2001 11:49 PM
To: Old Trucks List
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] 350 Turbo shifter rod
> Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2001 21:43:02 -0400
> From: "Tom" <tomntam@earthlink.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] 350 Turbo shifter rod
>
> I dropped the pan on my Turbo 350 tonight and tomorrow I am going to
change
> the shifter rod from where I messed it up changing the seal. I saw where
> there is a nut that seems like it holds the rod between the valve body and
> the tranny housing. It also looks like it may be a little tricky getting a
> wrench in there to turn it. Does anyone have any tips that would aid me in
> changing the shifter rod out?
> Also, I drained the pan, but not the converter, how much fluid should it
> hold?
> Thanks,
> Tom 55 2nd 3100
Tom--
The spacer, which I previously called a horseshoe clip, goes between the
case and the detent plate (that thing that looks like a rooster's head
dress). Remove the spacer, and you should be able to pull the rod out
enough to get a box wrench on the nut. The detent roller will probably
be the first thing to remove, to take the stress off the detent plate.
Be sure to take a good look at how it is BEFORE you take it apart! take
notes if needed, or take a couple pics with a polaroid or a digital
camera. Note which way the detent plate is in. Note how the pin on the
detent plate fits into the shift valve (which sticks out of the valve
body). Note how the parking linkage (the long rod that goes to the
back) fits at both ends. Note how it feels to turn the rod, how it
clicks, and what it feels like when it goes into park.
And be patient :)
Jim F
59s in AZ
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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