Scott,
Same problem that has plaqued many a TF owners. I could go down the road
and hit a small bump and the truck would dart to one side or the other, not
to mention the 1/4 round with the steering wheel revealed no action in the
steering. We all get good at managing this sloppiness and learn how to
preempt it. As stated I had the same problem, I got the wife to go out and
wiggle the steering wheel while I looked at all the components. Biggeset
slop I had was in the drag link, I rebuilt the steering box--not much help,
replaced the drag link--major improvements, tie rods--not real noticable.
Got another huge improvement when I redid the toe in with a front end
alignment. The truck drives really well now and is much more pleasurable.
Of course this was must my scenario and yours may different.. There are
adjustments on the steering box, but most have been maxed out allready,
Speakin of adjusments, after my message i'll post a message from Jim Forbes
regarding the steering boxes...... Good luck...wayne
--Jims Message----
Since the steering adjustment is similar, I'll go thru a quick layman's
version...but, you will of course eventually need to overhaul the gear,
as the bushings are most likely worn out, at the least. There are two
adjustments, the worm bearing tension, and the gear mesh adjustment.
First, jack up the truck so the front wheels are off the ground, so the
steering is free to turn. Put jack stands under the frame!
The worm bearings are adjusted by loosening the big lock nut, then
turning the bearing housing. On the 59 and older trucks, this
adjustment is at the bottom of the box, at the front. On the 60-newer
trucks, look at the top of the box, where the steering shaft (to the
steering wheel) sticks out. Usually a hammer and blunt punch will
loosen the locknut. The bearings should be adjusted to get a few
inch-pounds of drag on the worm gear (steering wheel), but you can
adjust it by tightening up to remove the play, then go just a smidgen
tighter..and tighen the locknut securely.
Then, adust the gear mesh, which is a slotted screw with a 5/8" hex
locknut. Get the steering centered (wheels straight ahead), and loosen
the locknut. Gradually tighten the adjusting screw in, while frequently
checking the steering play by turning the steering wheel back and forth
a turn or two...but leave it centered when adjusting. Evenually, you
will take up the slack, unless the gears/bushings are really worn, in
which case the adjusting screw will go all the way into the box! (not
good). Tighten till the slack is all gone, then add about a half turn
of preload to it. If all is well, you should feel the steering get just
a little bit harder as you pass thru the center of the steering wheel's
travel. Tighten the locknut securely, and enjoy the "new" feel of
driving your truck.
Also, when you finally get around to rebuilding the gear, you will want
to have the shop manual for reference, so you can accurately adjust it.
A few years ago I bought a few tubes of GM steering gear lube from the
local dealer...I have one in the shop with the part number on it, I
think, if anyone is interested. I don't know if it's still available,
but it may be. This lube is neat, it's half way between grease and
oil. Oil is too thin and leaks out, but grease is too thick and won't
properly lube the recirculating balls. Use the right stuff!
At 09:48 AM 9/21/00 EDT, you wrote:
>HELLO EVERYONE,
>I WAS HOPING TO GET SOME INPUT ON MY PROBLEM. I DRIVE MY TRUCK EVERYDAY
BUT IT HAS A LOT OF BUMPSTEER AND INSTABILITY AT ALL SPEEDS. I'VE BECOME
GOOD AT MANAGING IT BUT WAS WONDERING IF THERE ARE REMEDIES OUT THERE LIKE
A PANHARD BAR OR GETTING NEW TIE ROD ENDS? OR IS THIS NORMAL FOR AN OLD
TRUCK. IT HAS THE ORIGINAL STRAIGHT AXLE
>THANKS IN ADVANCE
>SCOTT
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
Wayne Osborne
1956 Chevy Pickup
LaGrange Ga.
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|