I believe I have seen (& commented on) this topic b4. Make sure the drill
you use to prime with, is running in reverse (everyone, correct me if I'm
wrong), because the distributor rotor goes counter-clockwise. For the fuel,
use a gas can close to the engine with new rubber hose for the run from the
tank to the carb & change the steel lines & permanent tank b4 using. A lot
of list members have been reviewing the merits (& costs) of sealing the tank
with aftermarket sealer.
Regards,
Doug Pewterbaugh
dpewter@msn.com
Denton, TX
49 3104 216 5-window
-----Original Message-----
From: Grant Galbraith <trks@javanet.com>
To: SALVADOR AGUILERA <SALAGUI@webtv.net>
Cc: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, February 06, 1999 11:12 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Test + Q
>If it was my engine I think I would squirt some engine oil in the spark
>plug holes and prime or run the oil pump after changing the oil. Mark the
>position of and remove the distributor and make up a shaft in a drill motor
>to spin the pump until you get oil pressure on the gage for a minute. I
>would also check to see if oil made it to the rocker shaft.
> For fuel I agree to drain the tank and lines but I would go a step
>further and take off the top the carb, clean out bowl and fill with fresh
>gas.
>
>Grant 50 3100
>
>SALVADOR AGUILERA wrote:
>
>> I'm about to start work on my 55 Chevy pickup. I need info on the
>> following:
>> What are the proper steps to starting an engine that has been idle for
>> the last five years . I will drain the oil, gas tank, air clean the
>> fuel lines, etc. Do I blow air through the oil lines? What about the
>> cylinder walls. Do I spray oil through the spark plug port? What kind?
>> Thanks guys for all your work on this mail list and to all who make it
>> possible.
>>
>> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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