Hi Bill.
If they aren't going on the spindle far enough to see the split pin holes, you
likely have a tiny projection or burr on the spindle. These hubs fit exactly
the
same as the Morris. The only exception to that is if you are using taper
bearings. They take up a tad more space than do the ball types. They tapers
don't last any longer, just usually cost more.
You also may simply be having a problem getting the seals over the seal area on
the spindle. That sometimes happens with seals that are not factory fresh and
catch on the seal part of the spindle.
I would NOT use the spacers between the bearings. They are a thing of the past
and don't work at all with some bearings, others you can't get a correct
adjustment.
Look at the area near the swivel pin as you try to put on these hubs. You can
see where they are hanging up, believe it or not.
The likelyhood of having the new bearing pressed in against the old inner races
is pretty low. Might happen, but I doubt that it did.
Good luck on travking down this delemma. You should be able to pinpoint what
the
hang up is. If there is a burr or something on the spindle, it can be removed
with a very fine file quite easily.
Let us know what you find. I'll be off now until Monday morning.
Regards, Paul A
BillSvale@aol.com wrote:
> Dear Listers: I bought a pair of Spridget hubs from a parts car and had a
> machine shop press new bearings into them. Something doesn't seem right when
> I put them on the car. It doesn't seem to push on far enough onto the
> spindle and the split pin holes are not visible. I suspect that I either
> have the wrong bearings or they were installed with extra seats. Also,
> should I be using the old "distance piece" from the old hub that slips over
> the spindle and floats between the two bearings? I am baffled and I my shop
> manual is not much help since it refers only to the original drum brake hubs.
> Thanks for your help. ---Bill Langdell '57 Morris Convertilbe
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