Harald,
I noticed that no one else had replied so I figured I would give it a shot.
My first experience at setting valves was on a 1967 MG Midget in 1970. I did
it wrong and it cost me a burnt valve. I have never had another problem
since I figured out how to do it right.
Anyway the following is the only trick you need to know. With the valve
cover off you will see eight valves. Number them from 1 to 8 starting in the
front. You adjust the valves as follows;
Adjust number 1 when # 8 is fully opened
Adjust number 2 when # 7 is fully opened
Adjust number 3 when # 6 is fully opened
Adjust number 4 when # 5 is fully opened
Adjust number 5 when # 4 is fully opened
Adjust number 6 when # 3 is fully opened
Adjust number 7 when # 2 is fully opened
Adjust number 8 when # 1 is fully opened
You know a valve is fully opened when the rocker is at its maximum tilt
pushing the valve the furthest down.
You should be able to tell the exhaust valves from the intake by looking at
the intake and exhaust manifolds, but it should be that 2, 3, 6, and 7 are
intake and 1, 4, 5, 8 are exhaust if my memory serves me correctly.
Good luck,
Phil Roettjer
67 +4
67 MGB
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Harald Sakshaug [SMTP:harald.sakshaug@datapower.no]
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 1999 4:51 AM
> To: MORGANS@autox.team.net
> Subject: Valve clearances on a TR engine.
> Importance: High
>
> Hi fellow Morganeers,
>
> I have only the Brookcland repair manual to use with my 55 DHC...
> This book does not contain much about the Standard Vanguard or TR
> engines.
> In fact I am somewhat confused about how to adjust the valve clearances.
> I think the book states (inc.) .010 and .012 (inlet and exhaust)
> clearances on a cold engine.
> This is about (mm) 25 and 30 blades I presume.
> The book also tells that the clearances should be measured when the
> engine is one half turn after the valve just had closed. I usually
> adjust no. cylinder when the distributor points to no. 1 spark plug wire
> and continue through 1-3-4-2 by that. But I think my valves tick a
> little to much especially when the engine is hot. When it is cold it
> seems fine but after it is heated up i think it is noisy.
>
> I am probably doing things wrong, since I don't follow the book
> precisely. Can anyone tell me a good way to adjust valves on the TR
> engines ?
>
> I actually don't know if my car has a TR2 or a TR3 engine. The
> enginenumber TSA770FRE tells me very little. Without the A it would be a
> early TR2, and what does the FR stand for ? I'm not shure.
> The engine in my car is swapped years ago, #3254 was originally
> delivered with the Vanguard unit.
> The present engine could have come from a car equipped with a TR family
> engine, since the prefix and suffix of the engine don't follow standard
> TR engine numbering.
> As with the M in the enginenumbers used in Morgans stands for Morgan, so
> perhaps the FR suffix is for Francis Barnett or something. I haven't the
> faintest idea what the A stands for.
>
> Does anyone know a bullet proof sign on the engine for if it is a TR2 or
> TR3 ? Or maybe someone can help me out figuring where the engine is
> originated ?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> > _\\///_
> > (' O-O ') EMAIL: Harald.Sakshaug@DataPower.NO
> > -ooO-(_)-Ooo------- Harald Sakshaug -- 74160652 -----
> > URL:
> > http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/3011/
> >
> >
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