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Re: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me
From: Paul Hunt <paulbhunt73@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2024 08:33:13 +0100
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Additionally, the two dash centre screws are longer than they need to be 
so you can't get them out or back in with the screen fully in, they need 
to be started before it gets there.  One guess as to how I know this.  I 
cut them down - they should be pointed to pick up the captive nuts under 
the dash, got one just right and the other a bit short but a finger tip 
up from underneath lifted it just enough.  That was on an RHD though, 
may not be possible on an LHD.

There are two rubbers - the glazing rubber and the apron seal, both are 
a swine to get in when new, the apron seal wants to turn under all the 
time instead of laying flat - and that's after you have got it in the 
frame!  John Twist has a video showing this, but unless it is damaged 
leave the old one alone and reuse it. Pulling the frame together around 
the glass can be a real struggle.  Both done with lubricant - KY Jelly 
has been mentioned in the past ...

The sockets in the body for the frame legs have packing - a thick alloy 
piece and fibre piece as required, so that when slotted in they fit 
snugly and the frame does not move from side to side.  If there is a gap 
bolting up the legs can stress the glass.

The frame has quite a bit of fore and after and tilt movement with those 
four bolts in, you are aiming for the quarter-lights to just touch the 
seals on the frame uprights all the way up, not compress them anywhere, 
which can cause the Crack of Doom in the door skins.  There is a small 
screw between the two bolts, leave that in place holding the packing 
unless you need to alter it.

More here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/screens.htm#sglass

Not surprised you don't want to tackle it yourself as a first-timer.

PaulH.


On 14/10/2024 18:50, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>
> I guess the main idea here is that I don't want to do this. I would 
> far rather pay a professional to do it even if it might double the 
> price just because they have equipment and know-how that I don't. 
> Also, I don't want the risk of causing a break or crack. If I can't 
> take it somewhere, then at the least I need a helper who knows what 
> they're doing and won't lead me astray or make an amateur mistake. I'm 
> willing to pay for that, too.
>
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    <p>Additionally, the two dash centre screws are longer than they
      need to be so you can't get them out or back in with the screen
      fully in, they need to be started before it gets there.  One guess
      as to how I know this.  I cut them down - they should be pointed
      to pick up the captive nuts under the dash, got one just right and
      the other a bit short but a finger tip up from underneath lifted
      it just enough.  That was on an RHD though, may not be possible on
      an LHD.</p>
    <p>There are two rubbers - the glazing rubber and the apron seal,
      both are a swine to get in when new, the apron seal wants to turn
      under all the time instead of laying flat - and that's after you
      have got it in the frame!  John Twist has a video showing this,
      but unless it is damaged leave the old one alone and reuse it. 
      Pulling the frame together around the glass can be a real
      struggle.  Both done with lubricant - KY Jelly has been mentioned
      in the past ...<br>
    </p>
    <p>The sockets in the body for the frame legs have packing - a thick
      alloy piece and fibre piece as required, so that when slotted in
      they fit snugly and the frame does not move from side to side.  If
      there is a gap bolting up the legs can stress the glass.</p>
    <p>The frame has quite a bit of fore and after and tilt movement
      with those four bolts in, you are aiming for the quarter-lights to
      just touch the seals on the frame uprights all the way up, not
      compress them anywhere, which can cause the Crack of Doom in the
      door skins.  There is a small screw between the two bolts, leave
      that in place holding the packing unless you need to alter it.</p>
    <p>More here <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/screens.htm#sglass";>http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/screens.htm#sglass</a></p>
    <p>Not surprised you don't want to tackle it yourself as a
      first-timer.</p>
    <p>PaulH.<br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 14/10/2024 18:50,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com";>wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:2118730059.9530500.1728928220521.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div
style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: 
#000000"><br>
        <div>I guess the main idea here is that I don't want to do this.
          I would far rather pay a professional to do it even if it
          might double the price just because they have equipment and
          know-how that I don't. Also, I don't want the risk of causing
          a break or crack. If I can't take it somewhere, then at the
          least I need a helper who knows what they're doing and won't
          lead me astray or make an amateur mistake. I'm willing to pay
          for that, too.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
    </blockquote>
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