This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============6444019115624474825==
boundary="------------96NgQEHHa2u6s87G5e0FU0WK"
Content-Language: en-GB
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------96NgQEHHa2u6s87G5e0FU0WK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Additionally, the two dash centre screws are longer than they need to be
so you can't get them out or back in with the screen fully in, they need
to be started before it gets there. One guess as to how I know this. I
cut them down - they should be pointed to pick up the captive nuts under
the dash, got one just right and the other a bit short but a finger tip
up from underneath lifted it just enough. That was on an RHD though,
may not be possible on an LHD.
There are two rubbers - the glazing rubber and the apron seal, both are
a swine to get in when new, the apron seal wants to turn under all the
time instead of laying flat - and that's after you have got it in the
frame! John Twist has a video showing this, but unless it is damaged
leave the old one alone and reuse it. Pulling the frame together around
the glass can be a real struggle. Both done with lubricant - KY Jelly
has been mentioned in the past ...
The sockets in the body for the frame legs have packing - a thick alloy
piece and fibre piece as required, so that when slotted in they fit
snugly and the frame does not move from side to side. If there is a gap
bolting up the legs can stress the glass.
The frame has quite a bit of fore and after and tilt movement with those
four bolts in, you are aiming for the quarter-lights to just touch the
seals on the frame uprights all the way up, not compress them anywhere,
which can cause the Crack of Doom in the door skins. There is a small
screw between the two bolts, leave that in place holding the packing
unless you need to alter it.
More here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/screens.htm#sglass
Not surprised you don't want to tackle it yourself as a first-timer.
PaulH.
On 14/10/2024 18:50, wkilleffer@epbfi.com wrote:
>
> I guess the main idea here is that I don't want to do this. I would
> far rather pay a professional to do it even if it might double the
> price just because they have equipment and know-how that I don't.
> Also, I don't want the risk of causing a break or crack. If I can't
> take it somewhere, then at the least I need a helper who knows what
> they're doing and won't lead me astray or make an amateur mistake. I'm
> willing to pay for that, too.
>
--------------96NgQEHHa2u6s87G5e0FU0WK
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
<!DOCTYPE html>
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
</head>
<body>
<p>Additionally, the two dash centre screws are longer than they
need to be so you can't get them out or back in with the screen
fully in, they need to be started before it gets there. One guess
as to how I know this. I cut them down - they should be pointed
to pick up the captive nuts under the dash, got one just right and
the other a bit short but a finger tip up from underneath lifted
it just enough. That was on an RHD though, may not be possible on
an LHD.</p>
<p>There are two rubbers - the glazing rubber and the apron seal,
both are a swine to get in when new, the apron seal wants to turn
under all the time instead of laying flat - and that's after you
have got it in the frame! John Twist has a video showing this,
but unless it is damaged leave the old one alone and reuse it.Â
Pulling the frame together around the glass can be a real
struggle. Both done with lubricant - KY Jelly has been mentioned
in the past ...<br>
</p>
<p>The sockets in the body for the frame legs have packing - a thick
alloy piece and fibre piece as required, so that when slotted in
they fit snugly and the frame does not move from side to side. If
there is a gap bolting up the legs can stress the glass.</p>
<p>The frame has quite a bit of fore and after and tilt movement
with those four bolts in, you are aiming for the quarter-lights to
just touch the seals on the frame uprights all the way up, not
compress them anywhere, which can cause the Crack of Doom in the
door skins. There is a small screw between the two bolts, leave
that in place holding the packing unless you need to alter it.</p>
<p>More here <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/screens.htm#sglass">http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/screens.htm#sglass</a></p>
<p>Not surprised you don't want to tackle it yourself as a
first-timer.</p>
<p>PaulH.<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 14/10/2024 18:50,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:wkilleffer@epbfi.com">wkilleffer@epbfi.com</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:2118730059.9530500.1728928220521.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div
style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color:
#000000"><br>
<div>I guess the main idea here is that I don't want to do this.
I would far rather pay a professional to do it even if it
might double the price just because they have equipment and
know-how that I don't. Also, I don't want the risk of causing
a break or crack. If I can't take it somewhere, then at the
least I need a helper who knows what they're doing and won't
lead me astray or make an amateur mistake. I'm willing to pay
for that, too.</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</body>
</html>
--------------96NgQEHHa2u6s87G5e0FU0WK--
--===============6444019115624474825==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Mgs@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net
--===============6444019115624474825==--
|