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Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block is still half full =
of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much more out. =
Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad coolant out. =
Having a drain point on the rad is convenient for a simple drain and =
refill, but that's all.
You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by shoving a piece of card =
under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, slacken the hose =
clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up between =
hose and rad port. It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that =
while I get on with the next phase of the job.
I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have the drain plug =
(replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right of the =
oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get =
any more than a rusty dampness below it. Frequently clogged with =
casting sand, some have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing =
the head.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----=20
On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. You have to pull =
the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. It's a =
mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then it =
tends to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a =
mess.
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Even if you remove the radiator altogether the block =
is still=20
half full of old coolant, and removing the water pump doesn't get much =
more=20
out. Remember the original poster was asking how to get the bad =
coolant=20
out. </FONT><FONT size=3D2>Having a drain point on the rad is =
convenient for=20
a simple drain and refill, but that's all.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>You can drain a roadster cleanly without that by =
shoving a=20
piece of card under the hose and past the cross-member over a bowl, =
slacken the=20
hose clip and push it right back, then push a blunt screwdriver up =
between hose=20
and rad port. It only trickles out, but I leave it to do that =
while I=20
get on with the next phase of the job.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'd be surprised if the later engines didn't have =
the drain=20
plug (replaced the tap a long time before that) below and to the right =
of the=20
oil gauge connection, but try as I might with stiff wire I didn't get =
any more=20
than a rusty dampness below it. Frequently clogged with casting =
sand, some=20
have had to 'chisel' it out with rods after removing the =
head.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PaulH.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>On my '76B, with '77 engine, there is no drain valve. =
You have to=20
pull the lowest radiator hose off the water pump to drain the coolant. =
It's a=20
mess. Need a really wide pan on the ground underneath, and even then =
it tends=20
to run along the front crossmember and steering rack and make a=20
mess.</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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