The number of ring connectors on the solenoid stud shouldn't be an issue, if
the nut is going to jam it will do so with only the battery cable on it, or
the battery cable plus the three (usually) brown wires. I'm surprised it
*has* jammed, it is a copper (or coppered) stud, maybe it was a ham-fisted
PO. I appreciate it is easier to chop through the wires but if you are
going to replace the solenoid anyway then it would be better to cut/grind
the nut and stud off and leave the wires as they are, rather than risk
problems with short wires and/or iffy connectors with the reterminations.
Making up a junction box would solve any length problems, but you would have
to be sure it wasn't going to short out on any metalwork in the vicinity,
and adding connections in the brown circuit is rarely a good idea.
The dust cover fits over the hole in the back-plate, nothing to do with
shielding the solenoid. If the solenoid is full of oil from the filter then
it is the filter that is the problem, not the solenoid or lack of shield.
I quite agree with loosening the top bolt *almost* to the point of removal
before removing the bottom, then removing the top. However this does need
two of you - one to support and remove the starter from underneath while the
other removes the top bolt. Single-handedly I think you have no choice but
to do it the other way round, unless you can support the starter from
underneath while you are working above.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
> Last night I removed the starter from my '77, but had to leave the
> solenoid
> dangling from the wires because all of the brown wires were stacked up on
> the live terminal with ring connectors and I couldn't get the nut off.
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