It is possible for the connecting rod and pin a the slave to be ever so
slightly rounded out and cause the symptoms you describe. It only takes
a very small decrease in travel to make the system inoperable. It is
easy to pull out the rod and pin and inspect for any wear. They are
also cheap to replace.
Dean
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Fred Schroeder
Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 11:20 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: sticking clutch?
I'm "in progress" with a 1972 MGB Roadster and am hopeful that there is
an easier solution than what my objective sense tells me is the only way
out. I bought the car from a person for whom it was a daily driver. He
indicated that he parked it about two years ago when the master brake
and clutch cylinders started to leak and he had plans to rebuild it. He
says that the clutch was fine and working with no slippage when he
parked it. I towed it home about 50 miles with the front wheels on a
dolly and obviously with the car in neutral. I rebuilt both master
cylinders and the clutch slave cylinder and bled it out properly. I get
almost 3/4 inch travel at the slave cylinder rod when the pedal is
depressed. The problem is that the clutch itself does not release when
the pedal is depressed and I cannot get it into gear. Have any of you
ever encountered a "stuck" clutch plate? The only logical alternative
that I know of is a bad or missing throwout bearing or a broken horn !
on the yolk for the throw-out bearing. Both will require removal of
the engine and while I can do that, I would prefer a simpler solution.
Any thoughts? Thanks. Fred
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