Gene,
I hope you get a chance to make it to a meeting sometime.
Nels says they have you working straight out.
I hope you get a chance to enjoy those new tires. Your charms are being
missed by BAMG! Stop in and say hello when your schedule allows.
A/ You can grab the power for the timing light off of the lower
brown wire circuit on the fuse box. Be extra careful not to short out as you
will most likely fry the fuse.
B/ The 80 original distributor will actaully retard instead of
advance the curve.
Steve Mackay has a really excellent way of setting the timing at full
advance at 3000 rpm. This seems to prove a most effective way of getting
great performance. In the case of the 80 the smog distributor seems to hog
all the power out of the engine simply becuase of its detuned unnatural
settings. I would have to say any other distributor would show a
considerable improvement over the stock unit.
C/ The process to time with the crane unit is the same as with
the old Hoplus unit.
Goodluck and happy tuning!
Steve D
>
>
> I will be setting the timing on my 80 B this weekend as
> it pings under hard acceleration. I have the Crane
> ignition. I assume that the process is the same? I will
> be using a timing light. Also can someone remind me where
> in the engine compartment it is convenient to grab power
> for the timing light ?
>
> Thanks
> Gene Balinski
> 80 B
>
>
> On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 09:30:45 +0100
> "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> > It shouldn't need a different timing to running with
> > points, but don't
> > forget that with today's fuels and older engines with
> > worn and possibly
> > non-original parts timing is best done by trial and error
> > anyway, setting
> > the most advance you can get away with without pinking at
> > any combination of
> > throttle, revs or load. A North American 73 would
> > probably originally have
> > had an 18V 672/673 engine with a 25D4 41491 distributor.
> > This set-up had a
> > static timing of 6 degrees and a strobe of 15 degrees at
> > 1500 rpm. With
> > unleaded and lower octane fuel you may have to *retard*
> > from this. Vacuum
> > source should be manifold, so you would set the timing
> > with the vacuum pipe
> > disconnected and the manifold plugged, reconnecting
> > afterwards and resetting
> > the idle speed as required. Connected you may well see
> > 16 to 20 degrees of
> > advance at idle.
> >
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