Gene,
A stud is turned into its hole but is not tightened to the bottom.
Measure the depth to which the old stud was inserted before, or measure
the depth of the hole, and turn the new stud in almost, but not quite, to
the bottom of the hole. One thread up is OK.
There is no torque recommendation on the stud into the hole, since
resistance to turning is just friction, not stretch of the stud.
4) Stud won't work out of the block unless the threads are trashed.
Use the antiseize to keep them in good shape.
Bob
>
> My questions are these: 1) what is the proper technique
> for stud installation ? I presume that it can be hand
> installed and then tightened up using the nut-on-nut
> method. 2) Is there a recommended torque ? 3) Do we
> need to use Locktite (red ? blue?) on the engine block end
> of the stud ? 4) Or, as some have suggested, should we
> forego the Locktite, tighten up the stud in the block, and
> just use some anti-seize on the nut holding the pump ?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Gene Balinski
>
> 80 B
> (Helping with 53 'TD)
> (Starting to look at Series IIA/SeriesIII Land Rovers)
> (What am I nuts ?)
Well, you will find the TD easier to service than one of those----bob
> (Don't answer that!)
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