The only safe material to use to repair a metal part (other than brazing,
welding, hard chroming or those sorts of treatments) is that miracle
product, J.B. Weld. They now have a version called J.B. Quik Weld, which
sets up really fast. Both can be sanded smooth, and either is excellent for
filling small rust pits. I've even used it on corroded areas around water
passages on cylinder heads (which were too thin to surface any further),
with excellent results.
Lawrie
British Sportscar Center
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Arimoto <arimoto@cemrc.org>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 7:32 AM
Subject: Newbie intro and sealant question
>I quick note of introduction. I got a '72 MGB last year after breaking my
>collarbone in a motorcycle accident, which curtailed my MCing for a while
>(back on, now riding a Moto Guzzi). I managed to pick up a parts car,
>too, and I've made a few steps along the refurbishment pathway: rebuilt the
>front end, new rotors, rebuilt the HIF-4's, new water pump, re-sealed
>tappet covers, new tires and seatbelts, a fair amount of cosmetic
>touch-ups. The good news is that the car is from the southwestern USA so
>there's almost no rust (except for the battery boxes which were pretty much
>rusted out). The DPO was a hack when it came to electronics, however, as I
>found several cases where wires were just twisted together and wrapped with
>electrical tape.
>
>The latest thing I've done is rather laboriously repaint the engine
>compartment, this while the engine is in place. I know it's not "normal"
>but I used semi-gloss black paint. This car is not going to be concours
>beauty, just a driver, so I'm not especially concerned over
>authenticity. I finished the painting last night and I think it turned out
>quite well. This was done with a foam brush after removing all the parts
>screwed/bolted down to the body work. The trick was using the brush to
>texture the paint rather than simply brushing it on, i.e., I dabbed the
>paint with the brush like you would dab a spot with a sponge.
>
>In doing the engine compartment I found that the hydraulics were in pretty
>sad shape. I was told that my chances of doing a satisfactory rebuild on
>the brake m/c weren't all that good, so I'm getting a new one. The clutch
>m/c (old style) came apart ok, but there was a little rust on the piston,
>which was not on the surface that contacts the bore, but on the part of the
>piston that is under the seal closest to the push rod. I cleaned the rust
>off, but the surface isn't true, and I think fluid might leak under the
>seal and out the pushrod end. My question--could I put a little permatex
>or silicone on this part of the piston before I put on the seal? (will
>brake fluid eat either of these sealants?)
>
>Good to be on the list, and TIA
>
>Rich A
>
>
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