Here is something from my archives that I got from the TR8 list.
At 05:56 PM 8/21/98 -0400, you wrote:
>At 12:24 PM 8/21/98 -0500, Susan and John Roper wrote:
>>Two thoughts Jack. You won't like the first. The tranny has a small oil pump
>>that lubes the bearings when the laygear is turning. Many stories about cars
>>towed with the rear wheels on the ground and bearing failure. The other
>thought
>>is the front cv joint. If that is gone replace the shaft with a u jointed
>>shaft. Good luck. John
>
>I'll be checking it this weekend, I wish it would have happened to my Spit
>instead, it's pretty simple to get at the transmission, but I would never
>mess with the TR8. The engine compartment looks pretty intimidating compared
>to my other cars.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jack
Two things. First, the tranny is pretty easy to pull by itself from under
the car. I did it by myself in about four hours. Some of the bolts are a
little tough but not too bad. The ROM procedure works well. Replace the
rubber bushings on the control unit while its out. They're always bad
unless someone beat you to it.
Second, assuming that its only the rear output shaft bearing that's bad
(usually the case from what I've heard of towing failures), that is also
pretty easy to repair yourself. The rear case can be removed without
messing with the main gearbox. You can then get at the oil pump (its always
recommended to replace the pump gears when you have the tranny open) and the
output shaft. I tore my entire tranny down and replaced a few parts,
including the rear bearing. I bought the replacement bearing at a local
industrial bearing shop (every town over 30,000 has one) and paid about
$10-15 dollars for it. The rest of the tranny is pretty easy to work on
yourself, but somewhat tricky to get back together (much fiddling, but not
technically difficult) and very intimidating to look at. So you can
consider whether to mess with that. I would at least remove the main case
and inspect all the gears for obvious damage. When putting it back together
you'll need new case gaskets and I'd replace the rear seal and the O-ring
that seals the shaft from the control unit into the case. Two common
sources of leaks.
Finally, I also put in the GM fluid and have been very pleased with it. It
improved some balky shifting I had when cold and going from first to second.
Really finally, (I know I said two things, but I'm on a roll). If it is the
driveshaft, consider Ted Schumacher's u-jointed drive shaft. I installed it
and have had no problems and it uses readily available u-joints instead of
the non-repairable and TR unique CV joint. You do have to do some dremel
work to the differential input flange to make the bolts fit. Plan on a half
hour with a small grinding bit.
Good luck, maybe you can get $1000 bucks from the guy and fix it with a few
hours labor and a $10 bearing.
Ben Zwissler, zwissler@hsonline.net
Columbus, Indiana
1980 TR-8
1966 TR-4A IRS OD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2004 12:27 PM
To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net; mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: SD1 gearbox oil pump
No one has replied to my question regarding the SD1 gearbox as fitted to my
1970 shelled MGB GT V8 .... and I chew my nails in apprehension.
The question is ...Do I have to take out the gearbox to replace the gearbox
oil pump bits? Or can I do it in situ??
Regards
Barrie
Barrie Robinson
(705) 721-9060
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