James,
To answer your questions: (1) I would use the factory shop manual or a
Motors Auto Repair Manual from the early sixties. (2) A Borg Warner T-5
for a Firebird or Camero with a V8 engine from 1983 through 1995 will bolt
right up to your bellhousing. The only modification you'll need to make on
the transmission case is drilling out the mounting holes on the tranny to
1/2 inch. They are a metric size just a wee bit smaller than 1/2 inch. The
V8 five speeds will have a 1/8 inch input shaft with 26 splines, so if you
are using the original three finger pressure plate you will either need to
modify the center hub of your clutch disk or buy a 9 1/2 disk that is 1/8 by
26 splines. I've heard that a mid 80s Mercedes has a 9 1/2 disk that is 1/8
with 26 teeth. There may even be a S10 disk that will work. I put a 9
11/16" clutch from a Camero in my car. It's a LUK part No 01-133 from
Pepboys. I'm using a McCloud Hydraulic throwout bearing. The 1st, 2nd and
3rd ratios are 2.95, 1.94, and 1.34 and the 5th gear is usually .63 or .73.
They are very close to the T-10 with the advantage of a fifth gear. My car
with a 3.40 Ford 8 inch rearend and .63 5th gear turns 2171 RPM at 70 MPH
with 195/60-14 tires. With a 3.90 rear end the engine would only spin 2491
in 5th gear. The GM version of the T-5 for Cameros and Firebirds is tilted
17 degrees to the left, so you'll need to fabricate a different rear mount,
but you will still be able to use your MGB rear cross member. If you use
the original shift lever you will need to straighten it. I used a S10
lever, but I still had to heat it and straighten it.
Don't about the driveshaft. I think the output shaft on a T-5 has 25
splines.
Do you suppose that mystery hunk of aluminum is part of a piston? I don't
remember whether it was straight or had a bit of a curve.
Good luck,
Al
----- Original Message ----- 0
From: <james_nazarian@excite.com>
To: <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 3:33 PM
Subject: Olds engine rebuilding
> Gents, It's been a long time but I'm back on the lists, mostly in lurk
mode. I have moved from Boulder, CO to Akron, OH. While driving to the
meet in Grand Rapids I think I threw a rod near Lincoln, NE. I was driving
and all was well until I heard a sound that reminded me of running over a
rock and it bouncing repeatedly off the undercarriage. Since I know there
were no rocks on the highway I pulled the kill switch immediately and pulled
over; there was a trail of what turned out to be oil following me. When I
looked under the bonnet I found a chunk of aluminum sitting on the frame
rail. From the passerger side I can see a tear in the oil pan resembling
what I would expect to see from a rod swinging through the pan and tearing a
hole in it. A friend also found a chunk of the block where the break
happened. It is about 2" by 3" with years of oil stains on one side and
clean on the other, so I would say it is an outside part of the block but I
haven't found the hole y!
> et. I will be pulling and rebuilding it soon, so now for the questions.
1. what is the best reference for building these engines as far as specs
and procedures? 2. I have a factory T-10 4 speed in the car and was turning
4k RPM on the highway, it is attached to a stock 4 speed bellhousing and has
a 10 spline input shaft. What 5-speeds can I get that will bolt in place of
this T-10? I would like to reuse the bellhousing and the crossmember if I
can. It would also be great if I didn't have to do anything to the
driveshaft but I'm willing. Thanks guys, James Nazarian
>
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