On a factory V8 you can only get the drivers side tubular manifold on and
off if the steering rack is removed, and having the manifolds off gives you
more room for manouvre and less chance of damaging them. I have replaced
mounts in-situ and, with the steering rack in, start that side in the
chassis nut first before bolting up to the engine mounting plate, then
finish tightening the chassis nut. But if the steering is out because you
are installing the manifolds after the engine is in then it is easier to fit
the rubbers to the engine first. The passenger side is no problem either
way. The chassis-side studs should be in the lower of the two possible
positions, and you may find that you have to twist the engine slightly to
get one sides stud in, then twist the engine the other way to get the second
side in, finally evening up the studs in the slots both sides. If you
grease the face of the chassis brackets it makes it easier to tap the bottom
plate on the rubbers further down into the 'Vee' made by the two chassis
brackets to reduce the sideways stress on the rubber. On the factory V8 at
least, because the engine mounting plates are handed but can be fitted to
either side of the block, they should be fitted so as to put the engine in
the rear-most of the two possbile positions. FWIW.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Dufault" <adufault@nycap.rr.com>
To: "MGB-V8" <MGB-V8@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2002 9:32 PM
Subject: V8 installation
> Hi All, I am about ready to install the Rover V8 engine and gearbox into
my 74
> 1/2 chrome bumper conversion. A few questions remain and your help is
> appreciated.
>
> Block hugger headers on or off for installation?
>
> Steering column in or out during installation?
>
> Motor mounts on engine or mounted in compartment?
>
> Any other secrets you care to share would be appreciated.
///
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