It is very common for late model cars to have a float filled with
gasoline, or partially filled. The float is plastic, & many have
pin-hole leaks. When the tank is first filled, the float will rise, then
slowly sink, giving the guage a false signal. I have replaced several in
the last few years on my '75 "B".
Like many other parts, the float is not available as a seperate item,
you must purchase the entire sending unit just to get a float.
The same float is used on some XJ6's, & I was able to buy several as a
seperate Jag part several years ago. There is no identifying number on
the float, but you might try taking the bad one to a Jag dealer for a
match.
To replace, remove the right rear wheel (not mandatory), jacking the car
as high as possible, remove the sending wire, tap off the locking ring
counter-clockwise, remove the ring, sealing washer, & pull the sender
gently out of the tank. I recommend a new washer, & perhaps a new ring.
REAR AXLE
Swaping the wire wheel unit for a steel wheel, & using the steel wheel
hubs reduces the track width approx 1-1/2". This allows Datsun
240/260/280/non-turbo 300 wheels, both original & aftermarket to be
used, with up to a 205/60/14 tire. I have mounted such wheels, up to a
7" rim width. You are not increasing the fender width, rather you are
optimizing the wheel location within the fender. In some cases, you may
need a 1/4" or 3/8" spacer to fine tune. In doing this, you will
probably find that the axle is not truly centered in the car. In doing
this swap on 4 or 5 cars, I have found as much as 1/2" difference from
side to side.
In the front, the original tie rod ends may foul the rim. The smaller
Quinton Hazel replacements should clear. They will likely clean any
wheel weights on the rim bead, so use stick-on weights on the inner part
of the wheel.
Jim Stuart
2 V8's, no dollars or sense
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