Hi David, I also am not sure about the rear Moss seal, I have installed
one, it leaked, I then reinstalled it and seems OK now. There is no felt
or other seal material in the original rear seal set-up. The aluminum top
half moon seal and the bottom half as part of the rear main cap make up the
"seal". Clearances are critical for this system to work, about 0.002"
concentric clearance to the crank is required.
Friont seal is a CR 14005 lip seal and easy to install. No mods required to
anything, just put gasket goo on the outer perimeter of the seal and
install with the timing chain cover. You will have to cut two "U" pieces
out of the sump gasket to clear the seal.
regards, Bob Grunau, MG TC, TD
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> From: dmeadow@juno.com
> To: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Subject: Rear and Front main oil seals
> Date: April 13, 1998 09:33
>
> T Listers:
>
> I'm in process of rebuilding my MGTD engine and I've progressed as far as
> replacing the rear main oil seal.
>
> I'm following the method in Horst Schach's book of refitting the crank
> over and over using machinist's blue to check the clearance of the upper
> seal.
>
> One curiosity. When I disassembled it, the upper seal had a rather large
> piece of felt kind of wedged underneath it, so it would also wipe the
> crank. Obviously, this was meant to reduce leakage out the rear of the
> engine. Anyone seen this setup before? It must not work, or everyone
> would be doing it, right? From my books it appears that there is no
> seal material used beyond the metal fittings. Is this correct?
>
> I've heard enough controversy about Moss' rear main oil seal conversion
> to avoid it, particularly for $200. However, has anyone had any
> experience with the front seal conversion? It is much less expensive at
> about $10 and may be worth a try.
>
> David Littlefield
> Houston, TX
> '62 MGA MkII
> '51 MGTD
> '88 Jaguar XJ-S
>
>
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