Bob,
A 4 position brown ROTAX, not LUCAS, PLC-5 ignition headlamp switch
with the spade key setup is proper for your PA. Send me your PLC-5
switch & I should be able to convert it to original for your PA. If you
need more details, give me a call.
The only thing correct about the PLC-2 switch is that it is 4 position.
Craig Seabrook
Whitworth Shop
Novelty, Ohio
TC/0911
440-338-5950
On Jul 13, 2006, at 8:23 AM, Bob Grunau wrote:
I drove my MG TC 1872 trouble free round trip miles to Gatlinburg MG
2006.
After seeing all the beautiful MG MMM cars at Gatlinburg, I decided I
better
get on with re-wiring PA-0531. I have a new wiring harness from British
Wiring who supply the Autosparks loom from the UK. PA-0531 currently
has a
home made wiring loom, a J2 fuse/cutout, PLC-6 three position
light/ignition switch, A real mess, wires going every which way.
So I have some questions:
I have two four position ignition/light switches:
1-PLC-2, looks very similar to a TC PLC-6 switch except has the extra
position for the charge system. This switch has an MRN-2 key , a
crooked
light lever ( looks like it got caught in a screen door ) and an open
window
to indentify the switch position.
2-second switch is a PLC-5, same four positions on the light lever,
straight
lever, no key but a funny opening that any flat bladed screw driver can
operate. Switch locations are identified by Charge low/high and Lamps
side/head engraved on the chromed outer ring . I suspect this switch
is more
correct for the PA but wonder about the funny "key".
Both switches have the same connections and wiring markings on the
back.
Both appear to make the same connection internally when operated
through the
range of four positions. So any clues which is correct for the PA. Or
can I
marry parts from the two switches to make a proper PA switch??
The PA wiring diagram does not show any connection to "F2" terminal on
the
back connection on the switch. Is this correct? I looked at a TA
switch
and it shows F2 connected.
I do have several P type fuse/cutout boxes. One has no cutout so I
could
use a diode. Any comments on using a diode instead of the cutout?
If anybody has a simplified wiring diagram or any hints, I'd sure
appreciate
them.
I'm a mechanical engineer ( at least I was ) and the wiring on the PA
looks
complicated to me. Might be OK once I start the project.
Thanks for any advice/help.
Bob Grunau
PA-0531
J-3017
.
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