One of our list members ( name deleted ) said he was having continuing
difficulty getting a rear wheel to stop wobbling on the hub/bearing. I
responded with the email below. I have had a lot of help from this MG MMM
group and so thought my comments on rear hubs might be of interest to a few.
Of course, most know all this, but if it helps one additional member, its
worth repeating.
Photos have been deleted for the list but I can forward if interested.
Bob Grunau
PA-0531
Many thanks for the detailed comments.
I would certainly think it worthy of putting up onto the Triple-M bulletin
board. After all, if this is news to me, it probably will be to countless
others as well!
Check out the MG Service Information Sheets #15 and 60. There are at least 3
things to make a good solid rear wheel with no movement. And if you achieve
this it goes a long way to eliminating oil leaks onto the brakes.
1-Tight hub to axle connection. I supply a tapered rear axle and taper bored
hubs for TCs which solves this problem. ANY movement between hub and axle is
no good. Check out MG Service Info Sheet #15 for importance of a tight
connection. A tapered axle makes this much easier. see photo. The inner end
of the half shaft in the diff can now help support the wheel thro the
canti-lever.
2-Tight bearing to axle tube. Those crazy castellated nuts that have been
hammered on/off with a cold chisel for the last 75 years just don't do the
job. Rarely tight!! I supply and use a 2" hex nut with oil seal on TCs, same
nut fits MMM cars. Now you can properly tighten the nut to about 125 ft-lbs
so it is TIGHT. see photo.
3-Tight outer race to bearing connection, see MG Service Info sheet #60.
Note the gasket can probably be eliminated and just use some good gasket
sealant. Note to get good clamping of the outer race, you want the flange
faces open by 0.004" when the hub spigot/extension is in loose hand contact
with the outer bearing race, before tightening the six hub/drum nuts. The
shim between hub spigot/extension will vary in thickness depending on
use/abuse of the hub spigot, general wear on the carrier hub, gasket
thickness ( if any ). Just make sure you have a 0.004" crush on the outer
race by the hub spigot extension.
Sorry of you know all this. Do you think this email is OK for MMM group or
is the above info well known?
Bob
Bob Grunau
150 Pinewood Trail,
Mississauga, Ontario,
Canada, L5G-2L1
905-274-4136
That's an interesting tip - which I haven't tried - thanks!
Re the rear hub, have you fitted shims between the hub and bearing outer
race? So the hub projection fits against the side of the outer race. This
would greatly improve the slop. Also I use a 2" hex nut for holding the
inner race so can tighten it properly. I will be using Loctite bearing mount
as both ends of my axle tube have been boddged by a few center punch holes.
But if the inner race is tight with the nut, and the outer race is clamped,
I think it will be OK. I am NOT going to take out the axle tube. ( at least
not now ) :-)
Bob
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