Lew's description is correct except I've never seen c'sunk screws used.
These need to be standard hex head (I think 1/4" X 1/2") as the only way to
tighten them is by open end wrench from the engine side. A screwdriver would
be difficult to use to tighten the slotted flatheads.
tommm
> Ahh. I just found a picture on page 29 of the parts manual and now
remember.
>
> The tie bar slips over the studs on the triangular (sort of) braces on the
> radiator with the "U" open to the front. Then the brace to the engine goes
> on, all being held by (4) 1/4" BSF lockwashers and nuts.
>
> Then the headlight support bracket lugs (the short L shaped pieces) are
> inserted through the shell and are fastened to the tie bar (with the base
of
> the L to the rear) using countersunk screws.
>
> Cheers,
> Lew
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-mmm@autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of DB35PA@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 3:32 PM
> To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
> Subject: PA rad mounting
>
> Hi Fellows,
>
> Seems I've wandered into one of those Chinese finger traps. The harder you
> pull....
>
> When offering up rad crossbar to end brackets (through the chrome shell),
> I'm
> stumped.
>
> I note end brackets are threaded ... which leads me to try passing a bolt
> through crossbar ... then thread on the bracket. However, nut head strikes
> rad
> side and no room to tighten. What's the tip?
>
> Also, which way 'round for the headlamp brackets? They have an "ear" for
> horn
> assembly and? Does "ear" goes towards front or rear of car and painted
body
> color?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Don B.
>
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