Dave is correct about the electric's. While electronic devices are
sometimes designed to work on a wide voltage input range, 4-48 VDC
for some test equipment, most automotive electronics are designed
for 13.8 VDC. There are racing ignitions that are designed for
other voltages but to run anything designed for the standard 13.8
at any other voltage is just adding another item to the list of
things that can cause problems, in my opinion. I don't like to do
that.
A 40 amp modern (high efficiency) alternator at 14 volts requires
.8 HP if it is 100% efficient. Adding 1.2 HP for resistive loss
and bearing drag we have 2 HP. if it's driven by a cog belt
add 1 HP, a flat belt add 2 HP for a total of about 3 or 4 HP
at 8000. If your using a V belt, add 5 HP.
I haven's used a dry sump at Bonneville but when I do, this is
what I expect. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Using a dry sump will allow allow Me to do two things that will
make a car run faster. First you can run lighter oil safely.
Switching from 20-50 to 10-40 can free up 2-6%, depending on the
engine (is it a 4 CYL or a V-12) The other is to use an electric
heater to pre heat the oil to 180 (+) degrees. This will add a
lot of power for the first two miles. I would pre heat the oil
so that the temp at the end of a run was 280-300.
Bryan
(now, let's see now -- where did I leave my pocket protector and
6" slide rule)
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/land-speed
/// what is needed. It isn't that difficult, folks.
|