Keith
Kind of makes me wonder why some guys have 15 to 20 degrees of caster in
their front ends. When I originally built my old comp coupe we started with
5 deg of caster and added, more as the car went through various
rebuilding's, until we got to 10 deg. Absolutely no difference in the way
the car steered at speed.
Now when I knocked the chassis out of square, that made a big difference.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
To: "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>; "DrMayf"
<drmayf@teknett.com>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 4:06 PM
Subject: couple of questions/Caster...
>
> 5.8 degrees Caster.... and Zero camber..... best I recall...
>
> seems to want to go straight at speed....
>
> K
> ----------
> > From: John Beckett <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
> > To: DrMayf <drmayf@teknett.com>; land-speed@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: Odd Jobs...and a couple of questions...
> > Date: Monday, June 04, 2001 7:16 AM
> >
> > Mayf
> >
> > We use 10 deg of caster and 0 deg camber and 1/8" toe in on the
Chevette.
> It
> > ran 240 without any problems. Thinking Keith successfully runs only 6 or
> 8
> > deg of caster.
> >
> > At that length you will need a custom drive shaft. Try Joe Timney for a
> > recommendation.
> >
> > If you don't have a door latch with the car I'd try a Bear Claw unit.
> Street
> > rodder stuff.
> >
> > John
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "DrMayf" <drmayf@teknett.com>
> > To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 9:53 PM
> > Subject: Odd Jobs...and a couple of questions...
> >
> >
> > > Well, out here where the chill factor today was about 103 or so, I
> managed
> > > to get a little done on the world's fastest Sunbeam wannabie. I solved
> my
> > > problem of putting the headlight surrounds on without all the
> underlying
> > > machinery and stampings in place. Also repaired some rot around one or
> the
> > > turn signal assemblies but will need final TIG welds to retain in
> place.
> > > And, thanks to those who know these things, I went to Home Depot in
LAs
> > > Vegas a week ago, got my piece of real LEXAN for the wind screen. Had
> > > already made patterns for passenger and drivers side so took my heart
> in
> > my
> > > hands and began cutting with the jig saw. first piece was a
> reeeeaaaaallll
> > > learning curve. But both sides are now finished and good enough for
me.
> > Jus
> > > need to finish the center brace and I'll be done with that.
> > >
> > > I found some EFI fuel rails for the SPYDER manifold available from
> Probe
> > > Industries that are completely finished pretty cheap, injector bungs
> > really
> > > cheap, and a manifold to efi TB adapter also. Two kinds of these, one
> > > vertical and one goose neck version.
> > >
> > > I used my really old camber gage and found that my passenger side
> camber
> > is
> > > at 2 degrees and the driver side is at 1 degree or so. And this raises
> a
> > > question in my mind: What kind of camber should I have? This car is
all
> > race
> > > suspension, no factory stuff left so those specs are no good. Should I
> run
> > > 0* camber? or what? I used the gage to check the caster, but it is
more
> > than
> > > the gage can handle, stops at 8 degrees or so.
> > >
> > > Who makes the best drive shafts? From tranny yoke to pinion yoke? My
> shaft
> > > is only 26 7/8 from the rear of the tranny to the pinion yoke.Wont be
> much
> > > twist in that length nor bad vibes either. \
> > >
> > > Anybody have any ideas for a good door latch. I have all the factor
> stuff
> > > and can reinstall it, but something simpler would be my choice. And
> more
> > > positive.
> > >
> > > Well, nuff chit chat for today...
> > >
> > > mayf, the ignorant desert rat
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