Keith & list,
The now required master electrical shutoff must do just that - shut off the
electrical, pumps, ignition, etc. How you do it is left up to each entrant,
it must be shown to be effective during tech inspection.
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net>
To: Glen Barrett <speedtimer@earthlink.net>
Cc: Bill Bennett <benettw@earthlink.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 1:33 AM
Subject: Battery cut off?
> Hey Dan... do we know the exact verbage of the change to the emergency cut
> off switch yet?
>
> Here is the reason I am asking.... The constant duty solenoids I am using
> haven't turned out to be a very good Idea.... seems they build up a strong
> electrical field and when shut off it takes a couple of seconds for the
> solenoid to release... What that means is in the event of an incident...
if
> we turned everything off a delay in shutting down the car could be
> crucial.... So I am going to swap all that out for Relay's which are in
fact
> instantanious
>
> If I have to carry the Battery Power ( Big Wires) all the way to the back
of
> the car and then to the console and back to the using components in the
> front of the car.... I am going to have HUGE wires running all over the
> place.... Personally I would perfer to have the Console power only at the
> back of the car...in the emergency shut off switch... when you turn it off
> the power is removed from the using components instantly with the use of
> relay's.... I think this is a bunch safer then a 15 foot long rod or cable
> that could become bent or crimped in an accident.
>
> I am not interested in moving the Batteries to the Trunk.... I have way to
> much Fuel running around back there...
>
> Keith ( thanks for your time again Dan )
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glen Barrett" <speedtimer@earthlink.net>
> To: "Keith Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> Cc: "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 6:22 PM
> Subject: Re: Electrical stuff
>
>
> > Hey Keith
> > Can't you do anything without someone getting in your face??
> >
> > Keith Turk wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Bill... very cool website... I know I gotta buy some weather pack
> stuff
> > > so Dave will get off my butt for doing what I knew how to do....
Geez...
> you
> > > guys don't like any of my electrical system that I was so terribly
proud
> > > of.... all lined up neat and pretty.... all soldered and heat
> shrinked...
> > >
> > > Bet you would complain if I hung you with a new rope...
> > >
> > > K
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Bill Bennett" <benettw@earthlink.net>
> > > To: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, January 01, 2001 2:47 PM
> > > Subject: Painting other things
> > >
> > > > While will are on the subject of painting blocks. A though came to
me
> > > > of something else useful to paint. Those pesky electrical
connections
> > > > that like to get all nasty after seeing salt. A few simple tips may
> > > > save you some trouble later on.
> > > >
> > > > 1. Don't solder any electrical connection. Soldering causes a
fatigue
> > > > point. Use a crimp type connection, not the common type that you
find
> > > > in any auto parts store, but ones with a heat shrink type sleeve
that
> > > > seals the crimp.Yes Keith you can use your wife's blow dryer to
shrink
> > > > to sleeve. A pocket lighter is not recommend as it tends to get to
hot
> > > > and also if you forget and put it back in your pocket might burn
some
> > > > pretty serious places. If you have to use a common type crimp run to
> > > > the closest Radio Shack and get some heat shrink tubing.
> > > >
> > > > 2. Invest in a good quality crimper usually about 30-50 bucks not
one
> > > > of those 5 -10 dollars types. You want a ratchet type that crimps
the
> > > > metal ferrule as well as the plastic sleeve.
> > > >
> > > > 3. Don't use those 1/4" wide quick connects. Use switches that make
> > > > use of screw terminals and use a ring type crimp connections. Now it
> > > > won't vibrate lose and leave you wondering how that happened.
> > > >
> > > > 4. After all your wiring is done and check it out to be completely
> > > > functional. Find a can of plasti-dip use to recoat tool handles,
color
> > > > doesn't matter. If you can't find any look through your wife's
finger
> > > > nail polish, color does matter. Get the ugliest color you hate to
see
> > > > her wear. Hope she doesn't see you or she may worry about your other
> > > > hobbies. Paint every connection including the screws cover them
> > > > completely. This will seal the connections and help prevent them
from
> > > > vibrating lose.
> > > >
> > > > 5. Battery terminals: I wished they would outlaw those dog gone
cheap
> > > > emergency battery terminals as they are nothing but trouble. Moroso
> > > > and a few other stock a nice compression type terminal that works
like
> > > > a tubing compression fitting. Otherwise use a crimp type. They make
an
> > > > inexpensive tool for crimping these that Keith can use his hammer
> > > > with. Before adding the terminal make sure you have bright shiny
> > > > copper if not use some fine emery cloth to polish the wire. Obtain
> > > > some "NO-OX" from the local electrical supply house. It comes in a
> > > > tube. Coat the wire good with it and make your connection, you can
> > > > wipe off the excess. What now did you forget to put that piece of
heat
> > > > shrink tubing on it before you made the connection. Yeah helps seal
> > > > this connection too. Use it everywhere.
> > > >
> > > > Keith that last one is meant for you get rid of those sorry
terminals
> > > > no since having a fast car with cheap terminals.
> > > >
> > > > Here is a link that carries just about everything I talk about and
> > > > just about anything electrical you could need to wire a car.
> > > >
> > > > www.waytekwire.com
> > > > Order their free catalog
> > > >
> > > > Bill
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