In a message dated 01/01/2001 12:52:19 PM Pacific Standard Time,
benettw@earthlink.net writes:
<<
While will are on the subject of painting blocks. A though came to me
of something else useful to paint. Those pesky electrical connections
that like to get all nasty after seeing salt. A few simple tips may
save you some trouble later on.
1. Don't solder any electrical connection. Soldering causes a fatigue
point. Use a crimp type connection, not the common type that you find
in any auto parts store, but ones with a heat shrink type sleeve that
seals the crimp.Yes Keith you can use your wife's blow dryer to shrink
to sleeve. A pocket lighter is not recommend as it tends to get to hot
and also if you forget and put it back in your pocket might burn some
pretty serious places. If you have to use a common type crimp run to
the closest Radio Shack and get some heat shrink tubing.
2. Invest in a good quality crimper usually about 30-50 bucks not one
of those 5 -10 dollars types. You want a ratchet type that crimps the
metal ferrule as well as the plastic sleeve.
3. Don't use those 1/4" wide quick connects. Use switches that make
use of screw terminals and use a ring type crimp connections. Now it
won't vibrate lose and leave you wondering how that happened.
4. After all your wiring is done and check it out to be completely
functional. Find a can of plasti-dip use to recoat tool handles, color
doesn't matter. If you can't find any look through your wife's finger
nail polish, color does matter. Get the ugliest color you hate to see
her wear. Hope she doesn't see you or she may worry about your other
hobbies. Paint every connection including the screws cover them
completely. This will seal the connections and help prevent them from
vibrating lose.
5. Battery terminals: I wished they would outlaw those dog gone cheap
emergency battery terminals as they are nothing but trouble. Moroso
and a few other stock a nice compression type terminal that works like
a tubing compression fitting. Otherwise use a crimp type. They make an
inexpensive tool for crimping these that Keith can use his hammer
with. Before adding the terminal make sure you have bright shiny
copper if not use some fine emery cloth to polish the wire. Obtain
some "NO-OX" from the local electrical supply house. It comes in a
tube. Coat the wire good with it and make your connection, you can
wipe off the excess. What now did you forget to put that piece of heat
shrink tubing on it before you made the connection. Yeah helps seal
this connection too. Use it everywhere.
Keith that last one is meant for you get rid of those sorry terminals
no since having a fast car with cheap terminals.
Here is a link that carries just about everything I talk about and
just about anything electrical you could need to wire a car.
www.waytekwire.com
Order their free catalog
Bill
>>
Group,
Bills article is one of the best things to come across our list. Things
electrical and the Bonneville Salt Flats don't get along well at all. I've
always claimed that if I put an automotive electrical device in a sealed
container in the trunk of a push truck and drove out onto the LSR pits, the
device would have the hiccups and malfunction when you finished the trip.
There's
Push cars, race cars, and spectator cars all seem to have electrical
problems after going to the salt. There's nothing more aggrivating than
chasing electrical gremlins at the races in addition to the usual mechanical
ills. Most of us do the wiring with no thought to troubleshooting it at the
races.
I heartily recommend that you all print out Bills comments. They are
truly words of wisdom..........Ardun Doug King
|