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Wayne - thank you.
Interesting that your friend's and my block leak at exactly the same spot
behind the center tappet cover. I wonder how many other blocks are out
there that also leak with unsuspecting users ?
When you had the pan off was this the only water drip that you could see ?
How were you able to confirm that the leak had been repaired by your
peening and epoxy ?
I used the same technique to do a repair. Recently (800mi since repair)
opened the tappet cover again and there was no evidence of any water with
coolant at 12 psi. Am a bit lazy to remove the sump to check but may have
to. I used Barrs when I first discovered the creamy goo - thinking it might
be a head gasket - this was before you put me onto the block porosity leak.
There is just no evidence of the creamy oil/water emulsion at any place.
However what disturbs me is that oil lab tests show water content above
their flag level. Been running with no glycol. Have a fluorescent dye in
the coolant as well. Losing a little coolant.
Any idea how much run time for the creamy emulsion to appear ?
Have also discovered that the ceramic block repair additives are not safe
to mix with the oil and could damage the bearings.
Last resort is a replacement block - grrr !
rg
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On Fri, Jan 10, 2025 at 3:12=E2=80=AFPM Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com> w=
rote:
> Hello Roger, my friend's Healey with the Porosity problem, as we talked
> about a while ago, was behind the middle tappet access cover. His leak wa=
s
> at the raised boss with the threads for the tappet cover mount bolt. His
> engine would only drip when cold. When the block warmed up it did not lea=
k.
> Slight heat expansion of the block was enough to stop the leak. At the en=
d
> of the day I fell back to my Jaguar servicing in the Seventies when they
> said to add Bar's Stop leak when changing the coolant on their V12 engine=
s.
> Following the instructions I warmed the engine with the Bar's and fresh
> coolant. As the engine cooled I used my cooling system pressure system
> tester and Pressurized the system to 15 PSI and let it sit for 24 hours.
> My logic was as the engine cooled and the porosity started to open the
> Bar's coolant mixture would be forced into the leak. It seemed to work
> because he enjoyed the car for several seasons with no issues. I instruct=
ed
> him to change the oil every spring in the event of a slight leak over
> Winter. We never saw any more Yellow gunk on the dipstick or on the oil
> filler cap. I will caveat that Bar's stop leak from 1970 is probably
> much different then what is sold now. Hoping this might help others. I
> found the leak when I removed his oil pan and saw the dribble down the
> inside of the block into the oil pan area.
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Wayne - thank you.</div><div>Interes=
ting that your friend's and my block leak at exactly the same spot behi=
nd the center tappet cover. I wonder how many other blocks are out there th=
at also leak with unsuspecting users ?</div><div>When you had the pan off w=
as this the only water drip that you could see ?<br></div><div>How were you=
able to confirm that the leak had been repaired by your peening and epoxy =
?</div><div><br></div><div>I used the same technique to do a repair.=C2=A0 =
Recently (800mi since repair)=C2=A0 opened the tappet cover again and there=
was no evidence of any water with coolant at 12 psi.=C2=A0 Am a bit lazy t=
o remove the sump to check but may have to. I used Barrs when I first disco=
vered the creamy goo - thinking it might be a head gasket - this was before=
you put me onto the block porosity leak. <br></div></div><div id=3D"m_-194=
4095433255184945DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">There is just no evid=
ence of the creamy oil/water emulsion at any place. However what disturbs m=
e is that oil lab tests show water content above their flag level. Been run=
ning with no glycol. Have a fluorescent dye in the coolant as well. Losing =
a little coolant.<br></div><div>Any idea how much run time for the creamy e=
mulsion to appear ?</div><div>Have also discovered that the ceramic block r=
epair additives are not safe to mix with the oil and could damage the beari=
ngs.</div><div><br></div><div>Last resort is a replacement block - grrr !</=
div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>=C2=
=A0<br><table style=3D"border-top:1px solid #d3d4de"><tbody><tr><td style=
=3D"width:55px;padding-top:13px"><a href=3D"http://www.avg.com/email-signat=
ure?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&a=
mp;utm_content=3Dwebmail" target=3D"_blank"><img src=3D"https://s-install.a=
vcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png" alt=3D"" wi=
dth=3D"46" height=3D"29" style=3D"width:46px;height:29px"></a></td><td styl=
e=3D"width:470px;padding-top:12px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;font-family:=
Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">Virus-free.<a href=3D"http://w=
ww.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&utm=
_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail" style=3D"color:#4453ea" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">www.avg.com</a></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><br><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jan =
10, 2025 at 3:12=E2=80=AFPM Wayne Schultz <<a href=3D"mailto:waschu2@gma=
il.com" target=3D"_blank">waschu2@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1p=
x solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr=
">Hello Roger, my friend's=C2=A0 Healey with the Porosity problem, as w=
e talked about a while ago, was behind the middle tappet access cover. His =
leak was at the raised boss with the threads for the tappet cover mount bol=
t. His engine would only drip when cold. When the block warmed up it did no=
t leak. Slight heat expansion of the block was enough to stop the leak. At =
the end of the day I fell back to my Jaguar servicing in the Seventies when=
they said to add Bar's Stop leak when changing the coolant on their V1=
2 engines. Following the instructions I warmed the engine with the Bar'=
s and fresh coolant. As the engine cooled I used my cooling system pressure=
=C2=A0system=C2=A0 tester and Pressurized=C2=A0 the system to 15 PSI and le=
t it sit for 24 hours. My logic was as the engine cooled and the porosity=
=C2=A0 started to open=C2=A0 the Bar's coolant mixture would be forced =
into the leak. It seemed to work because he enjoyed the car for several sea=
sons with no issues. I instructed him to change the oil every spring in the=
event of a slight leak over Winter. We never saw any more Yellow gunk on t=
he dipstick=C2=A0or on the oil filler=C2=A0cap.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I will caveat t=
hat Bar's stop leak from=C2=A0 1970 is probably much different then=C2=
=A0what is sold now.=C2=A0 Hoping this might help others. I found the leak =
when I removed his oil pan and saw the dribble down the inside of the block=
into the oil pan area.=C2=A0</div>
</div>
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