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Run-on: My mechanic told me to use fuel with 98 octane (instead of 95) =
and if it still happens to step on the gas pedal when shutting down the =
engine. This works good for me.=20
Reinhart
=20
Reinhart Rosner
55 100 BN 1
Vienna - Austria
=20
Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Hank =
Leach via Healeys
Gesendet: Dienstag, 18. Juni 2024 20:11
An: Bob Spidell; Healeys
Betreff: *** SPAM *** Re: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheels
=20
The best way to stop run on is foot on brake, car in gear-It's not =
hurting anything and is recommended by the likes of Geoff Healey and =
others. Denotation has a worse effect on the engine.
The downside of the lightened flywheel is a heavier clutch engagement. =
That said the heaviest part I ever picked up is a 100 flywheel. Egad, =
what a hunk of metal!
-However the issues with the flywheel/cracked crankshaft can be traced =
to a lack of a front pulley dampener and that might be the better =
solution to the issue. It may in fact make dumping the clutch easier on =
the drivetrain, but not proven. Since your problem is with the front of =
the engine, I would address the seal replacement -felt if you are a =
purest -or yes, the modern solution fancy cover to stop drips on the =
floor. I collect my Healey oil in a small swimming pool I constructed to =
hold leaks, while in storage. Then some kerosene quickly cleans up the =
mess when the car is moved. Since they no longer oil the roadways, think =
of the benifit you are supplying to the asphalt in longer life. =
Hank-------------------=20
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>=20
To: "Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net>=20
Sent: June 18, 2024 at 10:03 AM PDT=20
Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheels=20
Listers,
I know this one has been discussed--well, beat to death--but it looks =
like I'll have to pull my BJ8's gearbox/OD to replace a leaky front =
seal, so I'm thinking of installing a lightened flywheel while I'm at =
it. My main reason for considering it is to stop some pretty significant =
run-on ('dieseling,' which I get on my BN2 as well). I'm not totally =
comfortable with dropping the clutch in gear to stop it, and any =
performance improvements would be a plus. It just so happens I just =
caught an episode of 'Engine Masters' on MotorTrend TV, where they =
seriously reduced the rotating mass of an engine--an SBC, which is what =
they mostly do--and got some interesting results: more HP and torque, as =
measured on a topnotch dyno. The gains were shown primarily on =
acceleration which, intuitively I suppose, were greater when RPM was =
raised at 300RPM/minute vs. 600. Any constant speed increases weren't =
addressed as far as I could tell. The late, great Gary Andersen, who =
raced, said the main benefit was faster spin-up for rev-matching =
downshifts; anyone noted any other significant benefits? The 'Dyno =
Master' on EM said he'd seen timing chain failures with lightened =
flywheels; my main concern for both my Healeys has been reliability, =
with minimal maintenance required, but if it stops/minimizes the run-on =
I'd be happy. Anyone know how far you can go lightening without adverse =
effects? TIA, Bob=20
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lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Run-on: My mechanic told me to use fuel with 98 octane (instead of =
95) and if it still happens to step on the gas pedal when shutting down =
the engine. This works good for me. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Reinhart<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Reinhart Rosner<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>55 100 BN 1<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'>Vienna - Austria<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497=
D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DDE =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>Von:</span><=
/b><span lang=3DDE =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys =
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>Im Auftrag von </b>Hank Leach =
via Healeys<br><b>Gesendet:</b> Dienstag, 18. Juni 2024 =
20:11<br><b>An:</b> Bob Spidell; Healeys<br><b>Betreff:</b> *** SPAM *** =
Re: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheels<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>The =
best way to stop run on is foot on brake, car in gear-It's not hurting =
anything and is recommended by the likes of Geoff Healey and others. =
Denotation has a worse effect on the engine.<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>The downside of the lightened flywheel is a heavier =
clutch engagement. That said the heaviest part I ever picked up is a 100 =
flywheel. Egad, what a hunk of metal!<br>-However the issues with =
the flywheel/cracked crankshaft can be traced to a lack of a front =
pulley dampener and that might be the better solution to the =
issue. It may in fact make dumping the clutch easier on the =
drivetrain, but not proven. Since your problem is with the front of the =
engine, I would address the seal replacement -felt if you are a purest =
-or yes, the modern solution fancy cover to stop drips on the floor. I =
collect my Healey oil in a small swimming pool I constructed to hold =
leaks, while in storage. Then some kerosene quickly cleans up the mess =
when the car is moved. Since they no longer oil the roadways, think of =
the benifit you are supplying to the asphalt in longer life. =
Hank------------------- <br><br>From: "Bob Spidell" =
<bspidell@comcast.net> <br>To: "Healeys" =
<healeys@autox.team.net> <br>Sent: June 18, 2024 at 10:03 AM PDT =
<br>Subject: [Healeys] Lightened Flywheels <br>Listers,<br>I know this =
one has been discussed--well, beat to death--but it looks like I'll have =
to pull my BJ8's gearbox/OD to replace a leaky front seal, so I'm =
thinking of installing a lightened flywheel while I'm at it. My main =
reason for considering it is to stop some pretty significant run-on =
('dieseling,' which I get on my BN2 as well). I'm not totally =
comfortable with dropping the clutch in gear to stop it, and any =
performance improvements would be a plus. It just so happens I just =
caught an episode of 'Engine Masters' on MotorTrend TV, where they =
seriously reduced the rotating mass of an engine--an SBC, which is what =
they mostly do--and got some interesting results: more HP and torque, as =
measured on a topnotch dyno. The gains were shown primarily on =
acceleration which, intuitively I suppose, were greater when RPM was =
raised at 300RPM/minute vs. 600. Any constant speed increases weren't =
addressed as far as I could tell. The late, great Gary Andersen, who =
raced, said the main benefit was faster spin-up for rev-matching =
downshifts; anyone noted any other significant benefits? The 'Dyno =
Master' on EM said he'd seen timing chain failures with lightened =
flywheels; my main concern for both my Healeys has been reliability, =
with minimal maintenance required, but if it stops/minimizes the run-on =
I'd be happy. Anyone know how far you can go lightening without adverse =
effects? TIA, Bob <span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></body></html>
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