Re: [Healeys] BJ8 seat runners

[Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net>]

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I have taken a number of seat tracks apart. The pins at the ends are
slightly tapered and can be easily tapped out as long as you go the right
way. I would suggest measuring the protruding ends with calipers first. As
others have mentioned, the tricky part is replacing the threaded studs.

Harold

On Wed, Dec 14, 2022 at 7:01 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:

> I did it with regular bolts; welded them in and ground the heads down. One
> of the trickier aspects is removing the limiting pins on each end (they
> also retain the ball bearings). I don't recall how I got them out, but I
> remember it was a bit of a hassle. I replaced them with roll pins. I also
> lost a ball bearing or two; easy enough to replace (5/16" IIRC).
>
>
> On 12/13/2022 8:03 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>
> David -
>
> You can tack weld new T-bolts in there without too much effort.  They are
> pretty basic.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Dec 14, 2022 at 10:28 AM David Lodge via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone had a pop at restoring these, or do I have to act the lone
>> pioneer................again.  (Not that I really mind - which is a good
>> thing! - but any shortcuts appreciated, etc)
>>
>>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">I have taken a number of seat tracks apart. The pins at th=
e ends are slightly tapered and can be easily tapped out as long as you go =
the right way. I would suggest measuring the protruding ends with calipers =
first. As others have mentioned, the tricky part is replacing=C2=A0the thre=
aded studs.<div><br></div><div>Harold</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Dec 14, 2022 at 7:01 AM =
Bob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.ne=
t</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin=
:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"=
>
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    I did it with regular bolts; welded them in and ground the heads
    down. One of the trickier aspects is removing the limiting pins on
    each end (they also retain the ball bearings). I don&#39;t recall how I
    got them out, but I remember it was a bit of a hassle. I replaced
    them with roll pins. I also lost a ball bearing or two; easy enough
    to replace (5/16&quot; IIRC).<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 12/13/2022 8:03 PM, Alan Seigrist
      via Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">David -
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>You can tack weld new T-bolts in there without too much
          effort.=C2=A0 They are pretty basic.
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Cheers,</div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>Alan</div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Dec 14, 2022 at 10:28
          AM David Lodge via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.te=
am.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <div>
              <div dir=3D"ltr">Has anyone had a pop at restoring these, or
                do I have to act the lone pioneer................again.=C2=
=A0
                (Not that I really mind - which is a good thing! - but
                any shortcuts appreciated, etc)<br>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </div>

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</blockquote></div>

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