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In 1991 bolt on cooling fans didn't have sufficient CFMs to be particularly
effective, but worked well on the jags and MGs that had them simply because
they designed the systems around the CFMs they could produce. In the last
10-15 years, the fans you can buy now can move a huge amount of air, so
putting a pusher in front of the radiator is a viable option now.
Although my view still remains to make sure the cooling system is sorted,
suggest jet hot coating the exhaust header first, and go with a plastic 5
blade fan and use a 165 deg thermostat. If that still doesn't work then
consider adding a fan.
Cheers,
Alan
On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 1:11 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Bruce,
>
>
>
> See this 1991 memo form Geoff Healey. An electric fan could worsen coolin=
g
> problems if it doesn=E2=80=99t always draw ambient air.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> *From: *Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 20, 2021 7:23 AM
> *To: *Bruce Steele <healeybruce@roadrunner.com>; Austin Healey
> <Healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
>
>
>
> Always fit a thermo-switch and a manual override switch. The thermo switc=
h
> should be compatible with the opening temperature of the engine thermosta=
t.
> The thermoswitch should switch off at a temperature about 5 degrees C ove=
r
> the opening temperature of the thermostat. It should switch on near 90-95
> degrees C.
>
> Remember, the higher the temperature the better the cooling because of an
> increase in Delta T.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">In 1991 bolt=C2=A0on cooling fans didn't have sufficie=
nt CFMs to be particularly effective, but worked well on the jags and MGs t=
hat had them simply because they designed the systems around the CFMs they =
could produce.=C2=A0 In the last 10-15 years, the fans you can buy now can =
move a huge amount of air, so putting a pusher in front of the radiator is =
a viable option now.<div><br></div><div>Although my view still remains to m=
ake sure the cooling system is sorted, suggest jet hot coating the exhaust =
header first, and go with a plastic 5 blade fan and use a 165 deg thermosta=
t.=C2=A0 If that still doesn't work then consider adding a fan.<br><div=
><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div><br></div><div>Alan</div></div></div><br>=
<div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Ju=
l 21, 2021 at 1:11 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:hea=
leys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockq=
uote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1p=
x solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US" style=3D"ove=
rflow-wrap: break-word;"><div class=3D"gmail-m_1491777208159664073WordSecti=
on1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Bruce,</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<=
u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">See this 1991 memo form Geoff Healey. An e=
lectric fan could worsen cooling problems if it doesn=E2=80=99t always draw=
ambient air. </p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=
=3D"MsoNormal">Harold<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0=
<u></u></p><div style=3D"border-right:none;border-bottom:none;border-left:n=
one;border-top:1pt solid rgb(225,225,225);padding:3pt 0in 0in"><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal" style=3D"border:none;padding:0in"><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto=
:healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys</a><=
br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, July 20, 2021 7:23 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href=3D"mai=
lto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com" target=3D"_blank">Bruce Steele</a>; <a href=
=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">Austin Healey</a><br><=
b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan</p></div><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p>Always fit a thermo-switch and a manual=
override switch. The thermo switch should be compatible with the opening t=
emperature of the engine thermostat. The thermoswitch should switch off at =
a temperature about 5 degrees C over the opening temperature of the thermos=
tat. It should switch on near 90-95 degrees C.</p><p>Remember, the higher t=
he temperature the better the cooling because of an increase in Delta T.</p=
><p>Kees Oudesluijs</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p></div=
></div>_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote></div>
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