Re: [Healeys] dead

[Mike Sinclair via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>]

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Good points, Bob.  (Maybe "points" is not the best word in this case.)  
I do keep a Battery Minder on the battery whenever in the garage, and 
the voltage is well above 12v, plus it does crank well.  As you 
mentioned, maybe this was a whole lot of things that are now fixed.  In 
any case, so far, so good!  My 10 mile run today was encouraging.

Mike

On 5/4/2021 7:47 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Of some use, maybe:
>
> I have an old Ford 851 tractor; early '50s vintage, 6V positive 
> ground. It has a new battery, and after a spell on the charger it will 
> start--grudgingly--then once, when I pulled the charger off after 
> starting it died. After another charge, it would start but would die 
> if I tried to lift the hydraulic buck rake, or tried to drive it away. 
> I checked charge voltage at the battery, and at a fast idle it would 
> only show 6V. I had the generator rebuilt, and installed a new VR. 
> Boom: good start, 6+ volts and plenty of juice to both move and 
> operate the buck rake.
>
> Conclusion: Coils provide a fixed ratio voltage increase, based on 
> input voltage. On this tractor, 6V--a charging generator should 
> provide almost 7V at a fast idle--was enough to start and idle, but 
> didn't provide enough spark under load. I'm usually skeptical of coil 
> failures, because they have no moving parts and nothing to wear out, 
> and my BJ8 with over 200K miles still has the original coil as does my 
> BN2 (AFAIK) but it's an easy and cheap enough 'fix' to attempt. It's 
> also possible all the previous 'fixes,' along with a new coil, put 
> this engine 'over the top.'
>
> Bob
>
> On 5/4/2021 3:18 PM, Mike Sinclair wrote:
>>
>> A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8 which just suddenly quit.  
>> Hagerty brought it home. Diagnosis:
>>
>> It takes fuel, air, and spark to combust.
>>
>> Lots of fuel
>>
>> Spark
>>
>> Pretty sure there is air.
>>
>> Checked all the voltages, all per spec.
>>
>> Changed condenser, no improvement.
>>
>> Rotor and points are new.
>>
>> Someone suggested the cutoff switch in the boot might be bad.  
>> Checked the wire, and it wasn't even connected.  Disconnected this 
>> wire at the coil and using my trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to 
>> ground.  Aha! Intermittent ground!  Fired it up; a little reluctant 
>> but it started up and seemed to run ok.  Drove around the block a few 
>> times, came home and patted myself on the back.  Next day took it out 
>> for a little longer run (2 miles) and it began to whimper badly 1/2 
>> mile from home.  Nursed it home.
>>
>> Thought about it (a lot) including the fact that it has always been 
>> very hard to start when cold, and even then runs poorly for a few 
>> seconds before it catches.  Decided that maybe even though there was 
>> spark, maybe it wasn't strong enough.  Bought a new coil.
>>
>> After installation, if fired up much easier, and runs great.  Have 
>> been taking it on increasingly longer test runs and it seems fine.  I 
>> hate to say it is cured, but seems to be.
>>
>> Thanks to all who replied with helpful hints.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
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>
>
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    <p><font face="Tahoma">Good points, Bob.  (Maybe "points" is not the
        best word in this case.)Â  I do keep a Battery Minder on the
        battery whenever in the garage, and the voltage is well above
        12v, plus it does crank well.  As you mentioned, maybe this was
        a whole lot of things that are now fixed.  In any case, so far,
        so good!  My 10 mile run today was encouraging.<br>
      </font></p>
    <p><font face="Tahoma">Mike</font><br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/4/2021 7:47 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:48043c27-9d83-651e-22e8-8fcc7b745581@comcast.net">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      Of some use, maybe:<br>
      <br>
      I have an old Ford 851 tractor; early '50s vintage, 6V positive
      ground. It has a new battery, and after a spell on the charger it
      will start--grudgingly--then once, when I pulled the charger off
      after starting it died. After another charge, it would start but
      would die if I tried to lift the hydraulic buck rake, or tried to
      drive it away. I checked charge voltage at the battery, and at a
      fast idle it would only show 6V. I had the generator rebuilt, and
      installed a new VR. Boom: good start, 6+ volts and plenty of juice
      to both move and operate the buck rake.<br>
      <br>
      Conclusion: Coils provide a fixed ratio voltage increase, based on
      input voltage. On this tractor, 6V--a charging generator should
      provide almost 7V at a fast idle--was enough to start and idle,
      but didn't provide enough spark under load. I'm usually skeptical
      of coil failures, because they have no moving parts and nothing to
      wear out, and my BJ8 with over 200K miles still has the original
      coil as does my BN2 (AFAIK) but it's an easy and cheap enough
      'fix' to attempt. It's also possible all the previous 'fixes,'
      along with a new coil, put this engine 'over the top.'<br>
      <br>
      Bob<br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/4/2021 3:18 PM, Mike Sinclair
        wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite"
        cite="mid:1311b761-869b-fec3-cb31-25ab77fd9687@comcast.net">
        <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
          charset=UTF-8">
        <p><font face="Tahoma">A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8
            which just suddenly quit.  Hagerty brought it home. 
            Diagnosis:</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">It takes fuel, air, and spark to 
combust.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Lots of fuel</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Spark</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Pretty sure there is air.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Checked all the voltages, all per 
spec.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Changed condenser, no improvement.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Rotor and points are new.<br>
          </font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Someone suggested the cutoff switch in
            the boot might be bad.  Checked the wire, and it wasn't even
            connected.  Disconnected this wire at the coil and using my
            trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to ground.  Aha! 
            Intermittent ground!  Fired it up; a little reluctant but it
            started up and seemed to run ok.  Drove around the block a
            few times, came home and patted myself on the back.  Next
            day took it out for a little longer run (2 miles) and it
            began to whimper badly 1/2 mile from home.  Nursed it 
home.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Thought about it (a lot) including the
            fact that it has always been very hard to start when cold,
            and even then runs poorly for a few seconds before it
            catches.  Decided that maybe even though there was spark,
            maybe it wasn't strong enough.  Bought a new coil.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">After installation, if fired up much
            easier, and runs great.  Have been taking it on increasingly
            longer test runs and it seems fine.  I hate to say it is
            cured, but seems to be.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Thanks to all who replied with helpful
            hints.</font></p>
        <p><font face="Tahoma">Mike</font><br>
        </p>
        <br>
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