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That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil filter
gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our ancient
electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same type--seems to
help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a silicone 'oil' where
light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust can build up (speedo
cables and Bendix gears on starters come to mind).
I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium chloride;
cars of that era were designed and built to last for only a few years
before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over 205K miles and
is going strong (but shows her age).
So, Alan, what did you decide?
On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Bob wrote: "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
> pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
> rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is
> supposedly less antagonistic to rubber."
> --------------------------------------------
> 50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.
> Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net
>
> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which
> originals are now reaching."
>
> I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty
> harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
> rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is
> supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.
>
> Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal
> 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an
> original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried
> this (it requires rivets)?
>
>
> On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>> Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
>> of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I
>> recently disassembled had one that was completely destroyed.
>> Apparently this was the original tensioner so I'm wondering if
>> these things have a definite life which originals are now reaching.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys
>>
>> In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell
>> said:Â "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
>> of an engine."
>>
>> About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace
>> the oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
>> very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.Â
>> This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no plastic
>> in the engine's interior yet there it was. After
>> thinking about it further I decided that it could only have
>> been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and
>> sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that the
>> tensioner was non-existent and the chain pretty loose. I
>> replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
>> magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at
>> certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of
>> the loose timing chain.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell
>>
>> Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I
>> think they're one
>> piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue
>> smoke from the
>> tailpipe.
>>
>> By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of
>> an engine.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>> > All -
>> >
>> > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and
>> this seal came
>> > off the upper part of the valve guide.
>> >
>> > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud
>> which no one
>> > sells. I assume the best thing is to remove it and
>> chuck it,
>> > correct? It's already half disintegrated and I'm not
>> really worried
>> > but would prefer to not put it back on and have old
>> rubber parts
>> > getting into the oil.
>> >
>> > Am I correct to not put it back on? No one seems to
>> sell these.
>> >
>> > Best,
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>> >
>>
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That thought crossed my mind. I use silicone grease to lube oil
filter gaskets, and putting silicone dielectric grease in our
ancient electrical connectors--my dad's Model As used the same
type--seems to help prevent some of the Lucas gremlins. I use a
silicone 'oil' where light lubrication is needed and dirt and dust
can build up (speedo cables and Bendix gears on starters come to
mind).<br>
<br>
I'm taking the '50 to 75' years 'spec' with a grain of sodium
chloride; cars of that era were designed and built to last for only
a few years before being traded-in or scrapped, but my BJ8 has over
205K miles and is going strong (but shows her age).<br>
<br>
So, Alan, what did you decide?<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/22/2021 7:00 AM, Michael Oritt
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPTa0B6uwy5rv34G8UaZ3+ref_d8zMVb3651iwTXu0N_8UaqgQ@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style=""><span
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Bob wrote:Â </span><font
color="#0000ff">"I'm surprised they lasted this long--if
they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a
rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a
petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less
antagonistic to rubber."</font></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style=""><font
color="#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">50 to
75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.  </font></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Maybe
we should now be searching for silicon-based motor
oils?</font></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff"><br>
</font></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Best--Michael
Oritt</font></div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47
PM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite
life which originals are now reaching."<br>
<br>
I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't
lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or
oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br>
<br>
Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the
metal 'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises
transferring an original plate to one of their newer
replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:"comic sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly
recent years I had never experienced the breaking up
of the rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but
the engine I recently disassembled had one that was
completely destroyed. Apparently this was the original
tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:"comic sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="font-family:"comic sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021
at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">In the string about
rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said:Â "By
no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside
of an engine."</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">About a year back I
dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil
pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
very hard black plastic distributed throughout the
sump. This was a head scratcher as I knew there
could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet
there it was. After thinking about it further I
decided that it could only have been the remains
of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure
enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
pretty loose. I replaced the chain and
tensioner--not an easy job--and magically a
chattering sound that had been appearing at
certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic
rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"
style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21,
2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px
0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Most mechanics
favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think
they're one <br>
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires
blue smoke from the <br>
tailpipe.<br>
<br>
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the
inside of an engine.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
wrote:<br>
> All -<br>
><br>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust
valves and this seal came <br>
> off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
><br>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal
shroud which no one <br>
> sells. I assume the best thing is to remove
it and chuck it, <br>
> correct? It's already half disintegrated and
I'm not really worried <br>
> but would prefer to not put it back on and
have old rubber parts <br>
> getting into the oil.<br>
><br>
> Am I correct to not put it back on? No one
seems to sell these.<br>
><br>
> Best,<br>
><br>
> Alan<br>
><br>
><br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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