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Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 08:25:44 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net>
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My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries and 
had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially installed 
the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split 
washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local 
shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed it I 
omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked! Apparently, there was 
enough paint on the starter and the engine paint to prevent good 
conduction; the split washers cut through the paint enough to allow 
conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardware is less conductive than 
grade 5, but since the starter is grounded through the engine plate you 
need a good connection there (IOW, scrape the paint off).


On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote:
> I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard 
> starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out 
> to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in high 
> resistance.  Just a thought before you start replacing things is to 
> check connections and grounds.
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye (Lucy)
> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>
>
>
> Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e.
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys@autox.teaady checked m.net>
> Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: Bob Begani <rfbegani@gmail.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction 
> starter
>
> Bob--
>
> As said you can install the starter from under the car.  Though the 
> adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all 
> applications usually there is only one position that will fit on each 
> car so you will probably have to play with things a bit before you 
> find the correct  set-up.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani <rfbegani@gmail.com 
>
>     You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run
>     because of overheating.  the engine did turn over with a wrench,
>     and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan.  So I will replace
>     the starter.  Many of you have recommended a gear reduction
>     starter which is available from Moss and others.  What source do
>     you recomend.?  Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which
>     must be the gears.  Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment
>     without having to remove the engine?  As it is I will have to take
>     out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts.
>
>     Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was
>     the oil pump.  When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to
>     less that 20 psi at idle.  This engine was rebuilt with only 20
>     over and is using the same cam etc.  what  oil pump should i
>     install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement?
>
>     Regards,
>
>


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    My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries
    and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially
    installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade
    8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter
    to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I
    re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked!
    Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the engine
    paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut through the
    paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardware
    is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is grounded
    through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW,
    scrape the paint off).<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="auto">I expect you've already checked other possible
        reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a problem a few
        years ago that turned out to be a poor connection at a battery
        terminal resulting in high resistance.  Just a thought before
        you start replacing things is to check connections and grounds.</div>
      <div dir="auto">John O'Brien</div>
      <div dir="auto">'61 bugeye (Lucy)</div>
      <div dir="auto">'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)</div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto"><br>
      </div>
      <div id="composer_signature" dir="auto">
        <div style="font-size:85%;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent from my
          Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e.</div>
      </div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000" align="left">
        <div>-------- Original message --------</div>
        <div>From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
href="mailto:healeys@autox.teaadycheckedm.net";>&lt;healeys@autox.teaady
          checked m.net&gt;</a> </div>
        <div>Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
        <div>To: Bob Begani <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
href="mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com";>&lt;rfbegani@gmail.com&gt;</a> </div>
        <div>Cc: Ahealey help <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" 
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>&lt;healeys@autox.team.net&gt;</a> </div>
        <div>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear
          reduction starter </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default">Bob--</div>
        <div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default"><br>
        </div>
        <div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default">As said
          you can install the starter from under the car.  Though the
          adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all
          applications usually there is only one position that will fit
          on each car so you will probably have to play with things a
          bit before you find the correct  set-up.</div>
        <div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" class="gmail_default"><br>
        </div>
        <div style="color:rgb(51,51,255)" 
class="gmail_default">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
        <div style="color:#3333ff" class="gmail_default"><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br dir="auto">
      <div class="gmail_quote" dir="auto">
        <div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56
          PM Bob Begani &lt;<a href="mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com";
            moz-do-not-send="true">rfbegani@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px
          solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex" class="gmail_quote">
          <div dir="ltr">You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not
            start after a run because of overheating.  the engine did
            turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it
            only moan.  So I will replace the starter.  Many of you have
            recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from
            Moss and others.  What source do you recomend.?  Also, I see
            it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears.  Will
            it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to
            remove the engine?  As it is I will have to take out the
            tunnel to get to the starter bolts.
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the
              engine was the oil pump.  When the engine is hot the oil
              pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle.  This engine
              was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam
              etc.  what  oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump
              a reasonable replacement?</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <div>Regards,</div>
            <div><br>
            </div>
            <br>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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