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Hi Fred, I admire your union nut idea which, as you say, will make it a lot
easier to re-tighten the choke in the wood dash.
I had forgotten that many years ago I wrote a blog posting on that very
subject which may be of help to others.
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/01/17/bj8-choke-woes/
M
On Thu, Feb 27, 2020 at 10:15 AM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I asked the list for advice in replacing a complete choke cable assembly
> in the dash of my BJ8. I thank everyone who responded with some great
> helpful advice. This is what I did.
>
> I removed the choke block from the firewall and inserted a mostly
> straightened cheap dry cleaner's white coat hanger into the choke cable
> hole. I say mostly straightened coat hanger, still with some kinks in it,
> and just slightly smaller than the inside of the choke sheath. Those kinks
> created enough friction inside the sheath to keep everything in one long
> assembly.
>
> I removed the tach for access to the choke behind the dash. I followed one
> responder's comment and used a 1/2" x 20 x 1 1/4" union nut, sliding it
> onto the coat hanger behind the dash. This nut is 1 1/4" long and threaded
> it's full length. Next, I slid two M12 washers onto the coat hanger. The
> M12 washers fit precisely into the recessed area into the back of the dash
> choke hole making it flush with the rest of the rest of the dash.
>
> I slid the choke sheath thru the dash choke hole onto the coat hanger. It
> was a simple matter of gently pushing the sheath/coat hanger assembly back
> thru the firewall to the block. The two M12 washers were now inside the
> recessed choke hole on the back side of the dash with the union nut right
> in line behind them. Thru the tach hole, I tightened the union nut with a
> 17MM stubby wrench. A 16MM is probably a better fit but I didn't have one.
>
> Success! The entire cable assembly was in the dash, union nut tight, thru
> the firewall, and inserted into the choke block. While I was at it, I also
> replaced the two sheaths and cables to the carbs.
>
> I lubed the inside of the 3 choke sheaths with graphite (to prevent
> possible gum up with oil or grease during cold weather) and the cables
> moved very smoothly. The chokes actually snap back into the off position.
>
> I attached a photo of my choke assembly, as I installed it thru the dash.
> The 2 washers and the union nut go on the back side of the dash and because
> of it's length, the union nut is very easy to access and tighten thru the
> tach hole. This union nut eliminates all the other ideas of modified
> sockets, box wrenches, bent needle nose pliers as well as being upside down
> under the dash trying to tighten the standard nut.
>
> Fred
> 63 BJ7 deceased
> 66 BJ8
>
>
>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Fred, I admire your union nut idea whi=
ch, as you say, will make it a lot easier to re-tighten the choke in the wo=
od dash.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans =
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I had forgotten that many years ago I wrote =
a blog posting on that very subject which may be of help to others.</div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;fo=
nt-size:small"><a href=3D"https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/01/17/bj8=
-choke-woes/">https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/01/17/bj8-choke-woes/=
</a></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,s=
ans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"=
font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br>=
<div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Fe=
b 27, 2020 at 10:15 AM Fred Wescoe <<a href=3D"mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.c=
om">fredwescoe@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail=
_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204=
,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Listers,<div><br></div><div>I aske=
d the list for advice in replacing=C2=A0a complete choke cable assembly in =
the dash of my BJ8.=C2=A0 I thank everyone who responded with some great he=
lpful advice.=C2=A0 This is what I did.</div><div><br></div><div>I removed =
the choke block from the firewall and inserted a mostly straightened cheap =
dry cleaner's white coat hanger into the choke cable hole.=C2=A0 I say =
mostly straightened coat hanger, still with some kinks in it, and just slig=
htly smaller than the inside of the choke sheath.=C2=A0 Those kinks created=
enough friction inside the sheath to keep everything in one long assembly.=
=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>
I removed the tach for access to the choke behind the dash.
I followed one responder's comment and used a 1/2" x 20 x 1 1/4&qu=
ot; union nut, sliding it onto the coat hanger behind the dash.=C2=A0 This =
nut is 1 1/4" long and threaded it's full length.=C2=A0 Next, I sl=
id two M12 washers onto the coat hanger.=C2=A0 The M12 washers fit precisel=
y into the recessed area into the back of the dash choke hole making it flu=
sh with the rest of the rest of the dash.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I =
slid the choke sheath thru the dash choke hole onto the coat hanger.=C2=A0 =
It was a simple matter of gently pushing the sheath/coat hanger assembly ba=
ck thru the firewall to the block.=C2=A0 The two M12 washers were now insid=
e the recessed choke hole on the back side of the dash with the union nut r=
ight in line behind them.=C2=A0 Thru the tach hole, I tightened the union n=
ut with a 17MM stubby wrench.=C2=A0 A 16MM is probably a better fit but I d=
idn't have one.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Success!=C2=A0 The entir=
e cable assembly was in the dash,=20
union nut tight, thru the firewall,
and inserted into the choke block.=C2=A0 While I was at it, I also replaced=
the two sheaths and cables to the carbs.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I =
lubed the inside of the 3 choke sheaths with graphite (to prevent possible =
gum up with oil or grease during cold weather) and the cables moved very sm=
oothly.=C2=A0 The chokes actually snap back into the off position.</div><di=
v><br></div><div>I attached a photo of my choke assembly, as I installed it=
thru the dash.=C2=A0 The 2 washers and the union nut go on the back side o=
f the dash and because of it's=C2=A0length, the union nut is very easy =
to access and tighten thru the tach hole.=C2=A0 This union nut eliminates a=
ll the other ideas
of modified sockets, box wrenches, bent needle nose pliers as well as being=
upside down under the dash trying to tighten the standard nut.</div><div><=
br></div><div>Fred</div><div>63 BJ7 deceased</div><div>66 BJ8=C2=A0</div><d=
iv><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>
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