Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit

[Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>]

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Make that 7 amps--not 78....

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Patrick--
>
> If, as you say, the car is always in a state of discharge when the fan is
> running I would be concerned for the state of your charging circuit.  I
> assume you have a generator if you have an ammeter and
> I believe the generators on Healeys are rated at 30 amps which should be
> more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of an auxiliary fan: the SP=
AL
> site rates their fans as drawing no more than 78 amps (
> https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm).
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
> wrote:
>
>> Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which will
>> result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming on, probably
>> only when idling. Before you most likely had the fan wired directly from
>> the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter and not through the ignit=
ion
>> circuit so the light might not show. You could operating the fan using a
>> relay switched on by the under dash switch but getting the main current
>> from the battery. It will not solve the negative charge but it may avoid
>> the light coming on.
>>
>> Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than
>> necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short while unless in
>> prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and slow steep inclines
>>
>> The best way is to revert to the old situation with the thermo-switch
>> (wired through the ignition circuit and use the manual switch as an
>> override switch so when you switch of the ignition the fan will not work=
.
>> These should switch a relay with the main current coming directly from t=
he
>> main circuit with the Ampmeter
>>
>> Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at abou=
t
>> 5-10=C2=B0C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>>
>> Hello
>>
>>
>>
>> Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics.
>>
>>
>>
>> My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was
>> controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a =
bit
>> of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would alw=
ays
>> hover in the negative.
>>
>>
>>
>> Personally I don=E2=80=99t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been=
 wired
>> direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken
>> directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan o=
nly
>> comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch.
>>
>>
>>
>> Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is
>> illuminated and will not go out.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I hav=
e done? I
>> am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the
>> ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Woul=
d
>> that work?
>>
>>
>>
>> Any electrical whizzes out there?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Make =
that 7 amps--not 78....</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3=
333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Best-=
-Michael Oritt</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><b=
r></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmai=
l_attr">On Sun, May 26, 2019 at 4:10 PM Michael Oritt &lt;<a href=3D"mailto=
:michael.oritt@gmail.com">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Patrick--</div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"=
gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">If, as you say, the car is al=
ways in a state of discharge when the fan is running I would be concerned f=
or the state of your charging circuit.=C2=A0 I assume you have a generator =
if you have an ammeter and=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" st=
yle=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I believe the generators on Healeys are rated =
at 30 amps which should be more than sufficient to keep up with the draw of=
 an auxiliary fan: the SPAL site rates their fans as drawing no more than 7=
8 amps (<a href=3D"https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm"; target=
=3D"_blank">https://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_spal.htm</a>).=C2=A0=C2=
=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Micha=
el Oritt</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, May 25, 2019 at 4:28 AM Kees Oudesluijs &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"; target=3D"_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</=
a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0p=
x 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    <p>Nothing to worry about. The fan is drawing a lot of amps which
      will result in a negative charge hence the ign. light is coming
      on, probably only when idling. Before you most likely had the fan
      wired directly from the main circuit in series with the Amp. meter
      and not through the ignition circuit so the light might not show.
      You could operating the fan using a relay switched on by the under
      dash switch but getting the main current from the battery. It will
      not solve the negative charge but it may avoid the light coming
      on.</p>
    <p>Perhaps the fan is a bit to powerful and drawing more Amps than
      necessary. However the fan is only on for a very short while
      unless in prolonged very heavy traffic and on long and slow steep
      inclines<br>
    </p>
    <p>The best way is to revert to the old situation with the
      thermo-switch (wired through the ignition circuit and use the
      manual switch as an override switch so when you switch of the
      ignition the fan will not work. These should switch a relay with
      the main current coming directly from the main circuit with the
      Ampmeter<br>
    </p>
    <p>Use a thermo-switch tot cuts in at say 90-95=C2=B0C and cuts out at
      about 5-10=C2=B0C over the opening temperature of the thermostat.</p>
    <p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <p><br>
    </p>
    <div class=3D"gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365gm=
ail-m_-1022862323478581469moz-cite-prefix">Op 25-5-2019 om 09:17 schreef Pa=
trick
      &amp; Caroline Quinn:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
     =20
     =20
      <div class=3D"gmail-m_-1809673902067552239gmail-m_6620321412179458365=
gmail-m_-1022862323478581469WordSection1">
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Hello<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Seeking advice from those who
            understand automotive electrics.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>My real Healey has an
            electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by
            a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a
            bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge
            needle would always hover in the negative. <u></u><u></u></span=
></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Personally I don=E2=80=99t like
            thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and
            operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken
            directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so
            that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along
            with the specific switch.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Works well, but now when the
            fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not
            go out.<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Does that mean that the
            ignition circuit doesn=E2=80=99t like what I have done? I am
            thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side
            of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct
            from the battery. Would that work?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Any electrical whizzes out
            there?<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Thanks<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn<u></u><u></u></span></p>
        <p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia <u></u><u></=
u></span></p>
      </div>
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